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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Good dark red. Cool, youthfully inexpressive nose dominated by black cherry and smoky minerality; the strictest of these 2014s today (Mallard described it as Cistercian). Densely packed and very rich but classically dry, with savory minerality currently holding the upper hand over the wine’s fruit. This extremely backward wine is also showing its new oak…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale yellow. Aromas of oily yellow peach, pear, white flowers and flinty minerality. Sweet, intense and fine-grained, with harmonious acidity and a firm spine of minerality giving energy and finesse to the middle palate. Best today on the rising, resounding finish.

Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, which included 30% whole clusters, has a relatively rustic bouquet with ferrous red berry fruit and loamy undergrowth/damp moss scents. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, a bit chewy, a broad-shouldered Clos de Vougeot with a grippy and perhaps even uncompromising finish. I feel that the…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Deep red with ruby highlights. Riper and blacker but a bit monolithic on the nose and palate. Black cherry and licorice scents lead to dark raspberry and crushed stone in the mouth. Not at all herbal but in a very cool style and tightly wound. This powerful, backward, youthfully uncompromising wine is hard to taste…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Bourgogne Blanc was one of the final vintages before it was deemed worthy of being labelled Musigny Blanc. You can certainly see why they thought it was due. It has a taut and linear bouquet, very mineral-driven with real power and focus, hints of oyster shell and dandelion. The palate is bounding full…

Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Bright, light yellow. Very rich, explosive aromas of exotic pineapple and honey lifted by pungent calcaire. Extremely rich and concentrated but classically dry and fine-grained, without an ounce of excess weight. A powerful expression of crushed-stone minerality, with its grapefruit and lemon cut accentuating the impression of inner-mouth tension and energy. Finishes extremely long, with…