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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Meursault Goutte d’Or 1er Cru comes from 1.4 hectares. It has a crisp bouquet of fine delineation, featuring citrus fruit and a touch of lanolin and walnut. The palate delivers very good weight, a fine bead of acidity and hints of sour lemon and hazelnut toward the spicy finish. This has a lot…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne 1er Cru, which was taken from cask, has a delightful array of scents: orange blossom, hints of apricot and crushed stone, turning quite floral with continued aeration. The palate is very well balanced, displaying walnut and smoke on the entry, and quite flinty in style, maybe just lacking…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru feels a little static at the moment compared to its peers with plush, slightly confit-like red fruit and the oak conspicuous at present. It’s not overbearing, just a little trop. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe, black fruit laced with charcoal and brine notes, gentle in…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(average production in this large holding was 28 hectoliters per hectare, with potential alcohol ranging from 12.8% to 13.2% in the various lots; vinified with 25% whole clusters): Healthy medium red. Deep nose displays red and darker berries accented by spices, minerals and flowers; ultimately a bit blacker in character than the Grèves. Also more…

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

Heidsieck’s 2006 Brut Rosé Vintage offers good immediacy and plenty of intensity, both of which make it quite appealing. Still a bit tight, the 2006 could use another year or more in bottle to soften. Although light in color, the 2006 packs a pretty serious punch. Hints of orange zest, chalk and white pepper add…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

Though I have not been a huge fan of the 1986 Latour, this is undoubtedly the best bottle I have encountered. Deep and youthful, it offers black fruit and a strong stony/dusty element that clarifies with aeration, though it remains slightly disjointed. The palate is medium-bodied and solid with its gritty tannin. Firm with a…