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Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2023 Releases (Mar 2023)

The 2017 Les Forts de Latour conveys airiness on the nose, reflecting the relatively lightest vintage in recent years. Graphite and sous-bois infuse black fruit, offering a slightly welcome herbaceous/undergrowth tincture. The palate is very well-balanced and will appeal to those seeking a sleeker, lighter style of Pauillac. Not lean by any account, but this…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

Powerful and dark in the glass, the 2017 Les Forts de Latour is super-impressive. Black cherry, plum, spice, chocolate and leather are just some of the many aromas and flavors that flesh out as this ample, heady Pauillac shows off its considerable personality. Medium in body, yet with terrific depth and substance, the Forts de…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1986 Haut-Brion, served blind at a private dinner in Bordeaux, comes from an ex-château bottle. I must admit that I spent a few moments marveling at the bouquet. It’s intense and Margaux-like, perhaps more like a 1985 in style with precocious red fruit, cedar, kirsch and veins of cassis. It blossoms in the glass,…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Phélan Ségur is just as convincing from bottle as it was en primeur. Deep and beautifully layered, with exceptional finesse and tons of personality, the 2018 delivers the goods big time. Dark blue/black fruit, gravel, spice, menthol, licorice and dried herbs all build as the 2018 shows off its allure. There is plenty…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Phélan Ségur appears to have lost the green edge that I observed from barrel, now coming across fresh with blackberry, seaweed and light sea spray scents. It gently unfurls with aeration, though never slips into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, just a touch of dark chocolate infusing the black…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full ruby-red. Cassis, minerals, cedar and a floral note on the nose, along with an herbal currant leaf component. Juicy and tight; hints at the power of the vintage but misses out on the sweetness and pliancy of the best examples. Offers a reasonably seamless texture but the firmly tannic finish seems a bit herbaceous…