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Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Bright gold with a lively mousse Deep, pungent nose features powerful scents of minerals, saffron, pear, lilac, buttered apple, pear, white peach and marzipan. Broad and improbably concentrated, the pear and apple flavors packing a huge punch and complicated by buttery, leesy tones. As rich and supple as this is, it also boasts brilliant cut….

English Sparkling Wine: Effervescence and Reserve (Feb 2025)

The 2019 Brut Blanc de Noirs, a blend of 75% Pinot Noir, 14% Chardonnay and 11% Pinot Meunier (labeled Blanc de Noirs despite the Chardonnay addition), features fruit sourced from West Sussex and Kent. It underwent fermentation partly in oak but mostly in stainless steel, followed by 31 months on lees. Lemon and tart red…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Figeac is a regal, aristocratic Saint-Émilion. Vertical in feel, Figeac possesses stunning energy and vibrancy right out of the gate. Dark cherry, plum, mocha, licorice, rose petal and spice all open with a bit of coaxing. Figeac is a bit restrained today, but it won't be an issue in another few years' time….

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Figeac continues to not put a toe, let alone a foot, wrong under head winemaker Frédéric Faye. The bottle is closed initially, and in fact it was only the following morning that it began to unfold and reveal its true character. Quintessential Figeac on the nose, it offers blackberry, briar, pencil shavings courtesy…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 2001 Ornellaia (magnum) offers up violets, black cherries, minerals and earthiness in a big, structured style. The wine’s sheer intensity and thrust are nothing short of remarkable. Ideally, readers will give the 2001 another few years in bottle; as it is truly majestic stuff but will require patience. The 2001 Ornellaia is 65% Cabernet…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(14. 6% alcohol). Saturated ruby-red. Flamboyant, upfront aromas of black- and redcurrant, raspberry, strawberry, chocolate, mocha and violet pastille. Big, rich, sweet and deep, with superripe, distinctly Mediterranean flavors of blueberry, strawberry and chocolate, kept fresh by sound acidity. Conveys an impression of powerful extract. Finishes with superb, noble tannins and mounting flavors of red…