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2009 Red Burgundy (Jan 2011)

(racked; two-thirds vendange entier Good full red. Classic soil-driven Pommard aromas of medicinal cherry, smoke and menthol. Big, round and sweet; in a softer, lusher style than the Rugiens, without quite that wine’s density and definition. Finishes with slightly dusty tannins.

Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018)

A powerful, high-toned nose suggests plum distillate, strongly intimating the pit piquancy that emerges on a glossy, glycerol-rich, expansive palate. Buddleia and rosemary flower also waft from the glass and then add inner-mouth allure. There is a remarkable sense of sap and energy to the long, gripping, piquant yet refreshingly limey, juicy finish. Here is…

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon is a gracious, mid-weight wine to drink now and over the next handful of years. Sweet tobacco, mint, mocha, dried flowers, licorice and wild cherry are all nicely lifted in this mid-weight, understated Cabernet Sauvignon.

Multifarious 2017 Mosels, Part 1: Winningen to Wehlen (Jan 2020)

Pear and cherry preserves significantly marked by the piquancy of seeds and pits join tingling pineapple and zesty candied grapefruit peel on a penetrating nose and a creamy, buoyant palate. A chiffon-like sense of delicacy and airiness is uncannily allied to intense flavor concentration. Hints of caramel apple and white raisin add to what becomes…

Pfalz Riesling 2016: Restraint Rewarded (Jun 2018)

Pungently penetrating, Pechstein-typical scents of sage and pennyroyal anticipate the green herbal intensity and tactile impingement of green herbs on a polished, glycerol-rich palate. There is a juicy midpalate matrix of white peach and lime, and the finish here is refreshingly sustained and coolingly green-herbal, though not as gripping or decisive as what came before…

Pfalz Riesling 2016: Restraint Rewarded (Jun 2018)

A haunting nose delivers lavender, sage, iris and chamomile, along with hints of white peach, which lends subsequent juiciness. As with the corresponding 2015, this exhibits an especially flatteringly silken, subtly creamy texture in comparison with the other Mosbacher bottlings. Peach kernel and almond serve for piquant counterpoint, and billowing, bittersweet floral perfume persists inner-mouth….