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Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2000 Cos d’Estournel, which never quite grabbed me from barrel, is maturing nicely in bottle. As it approaches two decades, it continues to offer an intense, almost ambitious bouquet with blackberry, hints of dark chocolate, tobacco and scorched earth. Both vigor and delineation is present here. The palate is medium-bodied rather than full-bodied these…

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

Dark and imposing in the glass, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a delicate bouquet of balsam herbs and smoke, giving way to cedar spice box, dusty rose and dried black cherries. This is incredibly soft and pliant on the palate, with lavender-tinged, ripe red and black fruits guided by juicy acidity. Violet inner…

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

Dark and imposing in the glass, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a delicate bouquet of balsam herbs and smoke, giving way to cedar spice box, dusty rose and dried black cherries. This is incredibly soft and pliant on the palate, with lavender-tinged, ripe red and black fruits guided by juicy acidity. Violet inner…

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Bright, pale yellow-gold. Captivating aromas of tropical fruits, vanilla and creme br u lee are complicated by honeyed botrytis. Enters the mouth smooth, balanced and fresh, showing building sweetness and complexity to its pure, rich mango, papaya, ginger and citrus flavors. This large-scaled Sauternes admirably combines power and grace, finishing pure and long. Jean-Rene Martignon,…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Suduiraut has an attractive bouquet with notes of Mirabelle, jasmine and saffron infusing the upfront honeyed fruit. This is no shy retiring wallflower. The palate is well balanced with a viscous opening, lightly spiced with a pleasant bitter note that lends tension on the finish. Good length, this is a very fine 2010…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has a pure, utterly seductive bouquet of raspberry coulis, wild strawberry, crushed stone and seamlessly integrated new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins – a serious Grand Cru that has closed up in recent months. Foursquare, distant and aloof – but maybe that is what you…