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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

(70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon) Moderately saturated ruby-red. More merlot-dominated aromas of raspberry, plum, espresso, mocha and game. Silky, lush and thick, with compelling flavors of boysenberry, bitter cherry and dark chocolate. Complex, smoky, lively wine, finishing with strong torrefaction notes and lovely subtle persistence. The merlot component here goes through…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2000 Vieux Château Certan, which contains 20% Cabernet Franc, shows minor aging on the rim. The bouquet has opened up since I last tasted it, predominantly black fruit laced with licorice, less of the chimney soot aspect that I observed six years ago, though with a light Earl Grey scent. The palate is medium-bodied…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Vieux-Château-Certan has a gorgeous bouquet with red fruit, warm bricks, just a hint of sloes and rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with tarry red fruit, firm tannin and well judged acidity. It tapers in slightly towards the finish where I would like a little more roundness but there is persistence here. Readers…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright medium-deep ruby. Musky aromas of red plum, blackcurrant, cocoa and tobacco leaf. Juicy, sappy and rather stylish on the palate, combining pepper and herb qualities with a subtle touch of sweetness. Not a hugely concentrated wine but amazingly well balanced and silky, and with insidious depth of flavor. Finishes with suave, spreading tannins.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 84% merlot, 8% cabernet franc and 8% cabernet sauvignon; 13.7% alcohol; pH 3.70; a 70% selection) Bright ruby-red. Aromas of strawberry, cocoa and minerals. Then very smooth, rich and sweet in the mouth, with fresh flavors of red berries, black cherry and cedar. Very nicely balanced but this will require time to…

Focus on Tuscany: The 2009s and 2008s (Aug 2011)

The 2008 Sassicaia is a rich, deep wine imbued with notable class in its black cherries, plums, grilled herbs, minerals and smoke. The 2008 is a decidedly buttoned-up, firm Sassicaia that is currently holding back much of its potential, unlike the 2006 and 2007, both of which were far more obvious wines. Readers who can…