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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(100% vendange entier): Healthy dark red. Pure but tight aromas of raspberry, spices, rose petal, licorice and herbs. Densely packed and vibrant–impressively so for a 2015–with notes of bitter orange rind and peppery herbs accenting its flavors of red berries, brown spices, menthol, mocha and underbrush. Very savory wine with terrific spicy depth, as well…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru is matured in 60% new oak. It has a finely tuned bouquet with scents of granite filtering through the green apple and pear aromas, and just a little linseed oil in the background. The well-balanced palate displays a fine bead of acidity, good tension from start to finish and a…

The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

The 1985 Yquem has come my way a few times in recent years, but sadly, it never really impresses. The aromatics come across as one-dimensional compared to others: barley sugar and mandarin, later dried honey. It never really takes off. The palate is balanced yet more bitter than I recall, the finish rather disjointed and…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

Light gold. High-pitched aromas of lemon pith, quince and green apple, with complicating notes of smoky minerals and chamomile. Dry, nervy and very tight, with slow-to-open citrus and orchard fruit flavors and complicating notes of white pepper and buttered toast. Boasts excellent intensity and clarity but shuts down hard on the finish, which features strong…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had…

2024 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Ornellaia captures all the magic of this sensational vintage on the Tuscan Coast. Rich, ample and expansive, with tremendous polish, the 2021 is pure class. Dark-toned fruit, mocha, espresso, licorice, plum and dried herbs abound. The tannins are present but also beautifully integrated, as is the French oak. There was a time not…