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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 du Tertre has a slightly smudged pencil box and autumn bonfire scented bouquet. A little rough-hewn compared to its peers. The palate is better with chewy and quite saturated tannin, plenty of spicy black fruit with sage, white pepper and graphite, leading to a ferrous finish. I have found this Margaux vexing and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 du Tertre has a very ripe, rather smudged and over the top bouquet. This feels a little one-dimensional at the moment. The palate is much better with pure black cedar-infused fruit, a touch of pencil lead and gentle grip towards the precise finish. I suspect the aromatics are going through a sullen phase,…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, red plum, tobacco leaf, minerals and spices on the nose, lifted by a floral topnote. Silky, suave and elegantly styled; not a particularly opulent wine but nicely polished and balanced, and already offering a lovely perfumed character. Finishes firmly tannic, spicy and long, with harmonious acidity contributing to the impression of class….

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Medium red-ruby. Sexy aromas of black raspberry, coffee, menthol and flowers. Chewy, dense and plush; ripe but not overripe. Dark berry, espresso and menthol flavors are framed by sweet oak and ripe chocolatey tannins. A superb performance for this chateau: generous, deep and long on the aftertaste.

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, a blend of two vineyards, offers vivid red cherry, raspberry and light bergamot scents on the nose, well-defined, perhaps not with quite the same class as the Passetoutgrains. The harmonious palate has impressive grip, quite Volnay-like in style, unsurprising given that the vines conjoin the appellation, quite sumptuous on the…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

Containing 40% whole clusters, the 2022 Santenay Clos Rousseau 1er Cru is more composed on the nose compared to the Village Cru, with a tad more mineralité on display. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly angular tannins, quite saline, almost briny in style at the moment. Dark, blacker fruit emerges towards the finish. Fine, though…