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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

((a blend of 88 % cabernet sauvignon and 12 % merlot; 13.1% alcohol; pH 3.8; IPT) 78): Deep ruby. Flamboyant, superripe aromas of spicy blackcurrant, strawberry jam, smoky plum, vanilla, exotic wood and minerals scream Mouton (this would rate 100 points for its nose!). Rich, lush and powerful, with impressive fullness and volume to its…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Mouton-Rothschild has a very backward bouquet that is clearly nowhere near its drinking plateau, unfolding reluctantly with cedar and pencil box infused black fruit. Glimpses of pressed rose petal unfurl with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a mixture of red and black fruit, and veins of blue. Very harmonious…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Opaque, almost impenetrable purple-ruby. Closed nose hints at ripe dark plum, cassis, violet, coffee, minerals and ink. Opulent flavors of blackcurrant, minerals and herbs are pure and clean, with harmonious acidity lifting and extending them on the very long, rich, suave finish. This wine has improved considerably since the Primeurs. In fact, this is even…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep red. A red berry fruit bomb on the nose and palate, with a complicating gamey element. Broad and creamy-sweet wine with nicely integrated acidity. Finishes with firm, toothdusting tannins. More stuffing here than the 2007.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Duhart-Milon is a bit of a beast. Displays quite a dense, unforgiving pencil lead and tobacco-scented nose, and the fruit seems to take a back seat at the moment. The palate is well-balanced but undeniably brawny and rough-hewn, the kind of Pauillac you wouldn’t want to meet down a dark alley at midnight….

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Medium ruby. Superripe aromas and flavors of blueberry, blackberry, bitter chocolate, licorice, menthol and Asian spices. Big, chocolatey and rich; much broader and more backward than the Carruades I tasted next to it but without that wine’s perfume and light touch. Finishes chewy and youthfully medicinal, with a classic dryness and substantial tannins that call…