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The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)

Full ruby-red. Sexy aromas of raspberry, cola, root beer and coconut. Thick, dense and concentrated, with exotic, slightly candied dark fruit, caramel, toasted coconut and mineral flavors nicely shaped by firm acids. Shows strong fruit and a major dose of oak on the powerful, backward finish. This can’t quite match the 1998 for sheer depth…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Very good deep ruby. Spicy aromas of black raspberry, cassis, black cherry, licorice and cocoa powder. Supple and lush, with a chocolatey merlot character and adequate acidity. Not especially dense and unusually forward for a northern Medoc wine from this vintage. Finishes with dusty tannins and good but not outstanding length.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

Tasted two or three times before, the 1998 Calon Segur is a wine that showed well from barrel but became rather curmudgeonly in bottle. This bottle replicated the one shown at BI Wine & Spirit’s Calon Segur dinner early in 2016. It is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot and…

Château Siran 1918-2008 (Jun 2020)

The 2012 Siran is nicely detailed on the nose with redcurrant, red plum, crushed stone, cedar and pencil lead scents vying for energy – great energy here. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy and quite firm tannins. Graphite-tinged black fruit becomes spicier with aeration, the finish offering both substance and length. This has always been…

1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)

Deep red-ruby. Aromas of cherry, redcurrant, animal fur, spice and tobacco; much less primary than the ’98. Redcurrant and smoke flavors seem a bit more evolved than those of the earlier bottling. Here the dusty tannins are a bit less ripe and there’s a hint of greenness on the finish, which also features notes of…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Dark red. Musky, cool aromas of blueberry, mint, spices and herbs. Supple and fine-grained but dry and a bit herbal, conveying an impression of moderate ripeness. Licorice, spice and herb notes give freshness to the middle palate, but the finish turns dusty and a bit dry, showing modest persistence.