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Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2017 Beychevelle seems to have calmed down on the nose in recent months, far more even-tempered with still gorgeous pure red berry fruit laced with pomegranate and espresso. But now I find more Saint-Julien in my glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins. This feels very cohesive, poised and delineated with a seductive,…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Beychevelle is a luscious, extroverted beauty. An exotic mélange of super-ripe dark cherry, red plum, pomegranate, espresso, licorice and blood orange build as this potent, unctuous Saint-Julien opens up in the glass. The tannins need time to soften but should not be much of an issue in another few years' time. I very…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru fulfils all the promise that it showed from barrel and maybe even adds to it. Pure, unadulterated dark cherry, wild strawberry, crushed stone and very subtle herbaceous notes on the nose that is full of tension and focus. Like Arnaud Mortet’s Mes 5 Terroirs, the new oak is…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a competent if not overall exciting bouquet, just a little staid compared to its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet ripe tannins, black cherries and blueberry fruit with a touch of marmalade and blood orange towards the brisk and lively finish. With aeration it seems to express more…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Dark ruby-red. Very dark aromas of blackberry, salty minerals and violet, plus torrefaction notes of espresso and dark chocolate. Suaver and finer-grained in the mouth than the Clos Vougeot, showing lovely ripeness but a restrained sweetness to its dark berry, menthol and mineral flavors. Still a bit youthfully imploded, even medicinal, this wine finishes with…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru feels a little disjointed on the nose at the moment, some reduction subduing the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy, grippy tannin and what feels like a wine that has undergone more extraction than its peers. There is potential here, but it has a lot of issues to address…