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Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

Another dazzling wine, the 1982 Pichon Lalande is utterly profound from the very first taste. In the glass, the 1982 is powerful and explosive, with seemingly endless layers of flavor that continue to unfurl over time. Vivid, intensely aromatic and seamless, the 1982 has enough pedigree and depth to drink well for at least several…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a benchmark vintage for the estate, although I have not encountered a perfect bottle for around 20 years, when I believe the wine was at its height. Still, this is a lovely Pauillac with plush black and blue fruit on the nose, like before, almost Margaux-like in terms…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Red-ruby. Highly aromatic nose of raspberry, redcurrant, graphite, licorice and cedar. Leanish, dry and classic, with firm acidity but less flesh than the ’96. Lovely traditionally made claret, with terrific finesse and grip. Still evolving. (A second bottle showed a somewhat leathery nose and came across as drier in the middle palate; it was not…

The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)

The 1961 Palmer is a wine that tends to deliver upon its gargantuan reputation and we were rewarded with an exemplary bottle here. It has a clear colour with modest bricking on the rim. The bouquet is difficult to encapsulate into words – utterly ethereal. Heavenly definition, almost Burgundy-like in purity with traces of pencil…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

: Full medium red. Great sweet, mature nose of redcurrant, rose petal, truffle and underbrush, with some exotic tarry merlot showing. Wonderfully sweet and concentrated, with a hint of the liqueur-like quality of the vintage. This reminded me of a great old bottle of Hermitage. Finishes with powerful sweetness and uncanny persistence. This was one…

Vinous Table: Ristorante Osteria Carletti, Bedano, Switzerland (Mar 2018)

The 1996 Salon is just dazzling. It needs a good bit of air to fully open up, but the 1996 Salon is simply a mesmerizing Champagne that sizzles with energy, cut and total precision. A second bottle later in the week was every bit as compelling. When the 1996 Salon is on, it is just…