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Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ Bouchon Racine, London, UK (Oct 2024)

Finally, the 1990 Latour is a vintage that I have not drunk for five years. It is surprisingly youthful on the nose, with dense black fruit, cedar, violet petals and graphite, and it is less opulent than previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with beautiful poise, and the tannins are more polymerized than the magnum…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1961 Léoville Las-Cases, served from a half-bottle, shows moderate bricking on the rim. It has developed a gorgeous, somehow “mellow” bouquet that is refined and envelops the senses. This contains more red fruit than the previous bottle, with hints of cedar and bay leaf alongside a touch more orange blossom and dried flowers. The…

Picture This: Domaine Henri Gouges 1945 – 2016 (Oct 2018)

The 2006 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru has impressive intensity on the nose with blackberry, bilberry, dried leaves and a touch of dry tobacco. There is certainly good fruit intensity here. The palate is clean and fresh on the entry with grainy tannins, nicely structured with cracked black pepper on the earthy finish. This…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good bright, deep red. Rather withdrawn but pure nose hints at dark berries, minerals and a menthol austerity. Tight, pure and imploded, with superb definition of flavor but very introverted today. A note of red licorice gives lift to the middle palate. This very young and extremely promising wine finishes with youthfully tough tannins that…

Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012 (Apr 2019)

Moderately saturated medium red. Wild, very ripe aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, mocha, cola, leather and game are surprisingly explosive for the vintage. Impressively rich and dense, offering flavors of pungent black fruits, loam and peppery spices, plus a whiff of cinders. A real essence of Morey-Saint-Denis with its combination of dark fruits and soil…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Savory herbs, mint, sweet black stone fruits and lavender are some of the many notes that take shape in the 2012 Clos des Lambrays. Deep and resonant, yet also medium in body, the 2012 impresses for its length and exceptional overall balance. The 100% whole clusters are very nicely integrated. Hints of rose petal and…