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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pontet Labrie (formerly Le Pontet) comes across as a bit light and lacking the depth I saw en primeur. It is not as sensual or charming, almost as if the fruit is very much in the background. Pretty floral and spice overtones are nicely laced into the fruit. I expected a richer wine,…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pontet Labrie is a wine that I expressed some reservations about last year, especially the nose. It just misses the exuberance and delineation of the Le Carré, displaying faint touches of star anise and iodine, but all rather smudged. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet entry, very candied in style, and balanced…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 2016 Figeac is one of the finest vintages in recent years. This is perhaps what really put it on the map and ultimately led to its promotion in the Saint-Émilion classification. It has a wonderful, life-affirming bouquet with ebullient red fruit tones laden with mineralité. This bottle is perhaps slightly more floral than previous…

Vinous Table: Portland, London, UK (Feb 2019)

The 2010 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is one of the standouts from the best night of Chablis libation I have experienced. It has an extraordinarily intense bouquet of citrus fruit, yellow flowers, cold stone and a touch of linden. Breathtaking. The palate follows suit, delivering powerful yet refined citrus fruit that builds towards an electrifying crushed…

Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Jul 2012)

Bright pale yellow. Reticent, mineral-driven aromas of liquid rock, ginger, medicinal herbs and white flowers. Almost painfully intense today, with captivating floral lift to the crushed stone and saline mineral flavors. Utterly backward on the middle palate but the rising, palate-staining, remarkably long finish leaves the mouth vibrating with flavors of lavender, violet, anise and…

Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)

The 2011 Chablis La Forest is seriously beautiful. White peaches, pears, flowers, crushed rocks, mint and slate meld together in a hugely inviting, textured Chablis that will drink beautifully right out of the gate. At the same time, the 2011 is seriously inward for the year and clearly still has a lot more to say….