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The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

Delamotte’s 2012 Brut Vintage is rich, creamy and super-expressive. This is only the second vintage (the first was 2008) in which fruit from Oiry rounds out the classic core of Le Mesnil, Oger and Cramant that forms the backbone of the Vintage. Dried pear, white flowers, chamomile and mint are some of the notes that…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Larcis Ducasse is a dark, brooding wine. The 2021 feels a bit pushed, something I am not used to saying about this cru. The 2021 is more power than finesse. Black fruit, leather, spice, cloves and licorice are front and center. Ultimately, the 2021 is heavy, with little of the nuance or sophistication…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Larcis Ducasse has turned out better than I expected. It is a shy, introverted Larcis built along super-classic lines—the sort of Saint-Émilion that will emerge only with a number of years in bottle. Spice, tobacco, cedar, menthol, licorice and dried herbs all build effortlessly in the glass. This is such a classy, elegant…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Larcis Ducasse has a more restrained bouquet compared to recent vintages, showing black plum, blackcurrant, vanilla pod and violet scents. There’s opulence here, but it’s compressed. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, a bit angular at first with cola and brown spices. Linear toward the finish with fine sustain, it doesn’t quite…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Larcis Ducasse was picked from 29 September until 11 October at a respectable 34hL/ha, representing 65% of the total production this year. It has an almost gentle, atypically understated bouquet with brambly red fruit, wilted rose petal and light undergrowth scents. The palate is linear and structured, far removed from the occasionally opulent…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Bélair-Monange shows wonderful delineation and focus on the nose, which presents a cornucopia of red fruit, crushed stone, wilted rose petal and light black truffle aromas. It seems to gain complexity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, fine delineation and a velvety texture. This builds toward a lavish…