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2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(100% from the Aloxe side as the Pernand side of this grand cru was totally frosted): Bright, light yellow. Very reticent but pure scents of lemon zest, menthol and wet stone convey outstanding calcaire energy. Tactile and energetic, displaying an exhilarating balance of sweet and saline elements. The impression of sucrosité gives the middle palate…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright yellow. Discreet aromas of lemon cake icing and crushed stone are complicated by menthol and smoky, spicy oak. Compellingly thick and seamless but quite backward, even a bit youthfully aggressive, showing penetrating acidity, a smoky element and noteworthy mineral-driven energy. A superbly ripe vintage for this wine, which nonetheless went into a shell, flavor-wise,…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée Clos d’Eugenie offers brambly red fruit on the nose, laced with light espresso and gravel aromas. This is quite discreet for a Premier Cru. The balanced, medium-bodied palate displays grainy tannin but lacks substance on the finish and pulls up short. Perhaps it will improve with two or three years in bottle….

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(this wine and all of the 2015 crus were vinified with 50% whole clusters): Bright medium red. A touch of reduction to the fruit-driven aromas of red plum, strawberry and raspberry. Creamy-sweet on entry, then a bit closed in the middle palate, with its red fruit flavors complicated by menthol and smoky saline minerality. Rather…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a beautiful, well-defined, complex bouquet of raspberry, wild strawberry, pain d’épices and minerals, mercurial in the glass and changing with virtually every swirl. The palate is sleek and smooth. There is obviously some seductive new oak at play here, but it is simpatico with the fruit and…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(25 hectoliters per hectare): Full, dark red. Tight, primary, slightly reduced aromas of blackberry, blueberry, licorice and minerals. Densely packed, rich and broad; a distinctly horizontal, pliant style of Clos Vougeot, no doubt a function of the very warm, sunny vintage. Today this is sweeter and more open-knit than the Grands-Echézeaux but both of these…