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2004 Barolo: The Cream Rises to The Top (May 2015)

The 2004 Barolo Monprivato is utterly magnificent in its freshness, nuance and delineation. Sweet floral notes meld effortlessly into hard candy, wild flowers, rose petal and pomegranate, all supported by super-fine tannins. I very much admire the sense of energy here. The 2004 is striking today, but it is also quite young. Readers who are…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Medium red with some amber at the rim. Complex, soil-inflected nose offers strawberry, dried flowers, minerals, licorice, sage and porcini mushroom. Suave and sweet in the mouth, like a maturing Burgundy, with highly perfumed flavors of strawberry, coffee, mocha and minerals framed by a surprising spine of acidity. The most complex of these 2004s today…

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Pommard Rugiens Bas is delicate and gracious from start to finish. Bright red fruit, hard candy and fresh flowers are some of the many nuances that take shape in the glass. The 2009 reveals considerable aromatic lift and a seamless personality that is totally inviting. De Montille used 67% whole clusters, but their…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

(two-thirds vendange entier): Palish medium red. Knockout nose offers raspberry, cherry, flowers, spices and a whiff of cotton candy. Very sweet red berry flavors show a medicinal reserve thanks to strong fresh herb and crushed stone elements. I love the combination of a plump, creamy middle and a firm edge. The minerally, long finish is…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Medium red. Closed but pure nose hints at redcurrant, minerals, iron, smoke, leather and cocoa. Surprisingly sweet but holding back plenty in reserve. Very spicy and aromatic in the mouth, with excellent detail to the fruit, leather and mineral flavors. Finishes with lovely breadth and rising length. This baby needs air, or time in the…

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze is deep and inviting from the very first taste. This is an especially sensual, mysterious Bèze endowed with tons of depth. Sweet floral and minty notes add freshness and lift, but this remains an intense wine that is showing just the barest hint of its ultimate potential. This is a…