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1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Excellent ruby-red. Dark berries, licorice and minerals on the nose. Tightly wrapped and firmly minerally in the mouth, with a note of shoe polish. Extremely primary for the vintage. Plenty of richness here. Finishes with toothdusting tannins and excellent length.

Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)

The 1999 Ausone replicated the impressive performance it showed from barrel. It went through an awkward stage after bottling but now it has reached adulthood, this is a great success for the vintage, a wine that I suspect will be under-estimated against the 2000 and 2001. It has a very intense bouquet with blackberry and…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full medium ruby. Aromas of plum syrup, spice cake, minerals, Valrhona chocolate and tobacco. Sweet, suave and fairly full in the mouth, with strong underlying minerality. Finishes subtle and persistent, with dusty, even tannins and some new oak showing.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated ruby-red. Expressive, floral aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, toffee, licorice and chocolate; suggests an almost roasted ripeness. Chocolatey and very dense in the mouth; rather tightly wrapped today but still much broader than the ’97. Finishes very long, with substantial tongue-coating tannins. Powerful and impressive for the vintage.

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another…