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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Alter Ego is unusually dark in this vintage, the result of abnormally low yields and very ripe Merlot. An exuberant, voluptuous wine, the 2012 hits the palate with a mélange of black cherry, plum, smoke, licorice, tobacco and grilled herbs. There is more than enough tannin and acidity to support a good decade-plus…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Malartic Lagravière is fabulous. Dark, ample and explosive, the 2020 offers an exciting mélange of dark fruit, lavender, spice and licorice. Even with all of its obvious size, the 2020 retains terrific freshness and plenty of delineation.

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Malartic-Lagravière offers a mixture of red and black fruit on the nose, with a slight menthol note that is somewhat distracting. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and a keen line of acidity. This is a little richer than the Haut-Bailly, with a licorice-tinged finish. It's not bad overall, though I suspect…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Malartic Lagravière is a showy, voluptuous wine. Racy and explosive, the 2019 certainly makes a strong first impression. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, mocha, new leather, spice and licorice abound. As always, Malartic is a pretty forward, succulent Pessac-Léognan, but the 2019 is a bit strict today. Whether that is the vintage speaking or…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Malartic Lagravière presents a refined nose of blackberry, raspberry, cedar and light estuarine aromas, very well defined and focused. The palate is framed by fine-grained tannins, and the pure blackberry and raspberry notes are laced with blood orange. Maybe just a little more granular in texture than before, but still wonderfully balanced, with…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Yquem was tasted in Amsterdam, the first wine poured at a lunch, thereby allowing me a longer period to examine it. Slightly burnished in hue, it has a very attractive bouquet with scents of dried quince, clementine, linseed and subtle candle wax, perhaps more discrete than usual, but certainly fresh and vibrant. The…