Archives: Product Reviews

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2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Medium red. Almost a confectionery sweetness to the aromas of black cherry, cassis and dried flowers. Fat, sweet, lush and fine-grained; this really fills the mouth with perfume. The berry, pepper and mineral flavors are complicated by a saline, earthy nuance. Finishes with superb breadth of fine tannins and excellent persistence. When I asked Brouin…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2011 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru feels clean and pure on the nose, elegant rather than powerful with brambly red berry fruit, undergrowth, chestnut and sage developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied, clean raspberry and wild strawberry with fine tannin all the way to the finish, especially for a Pommard. It fans out…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

(two-thirds vendange entier): Bright red. Captivating, nuanced nose offers strawberry, raspberry, smoke and iron. Tightly wound and savory but boasts lovely intensity and lift for 2011. Silky red fruit flavors are perked up by pepper and saline notes. Really excellent fruit intensity and finishing soil tones here, but this ripely tannic, subtly palate-staining wine really…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2008 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru has a fragrant, leafy, sous-bois-tinged bouquet that takes time to unfurl in the glass. I appreciate the focus and delineation of this Grand Cru. The palate is beautifully knit together with filigree tannins. It has much more depth than the Premier Crus, with a satin-like texture. It’s not persistent but…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Medium red. Musky, soil-driven aromas of mocha, licorice, spices, soy sauce and flowers. Sweet, plush, rich and very ripe, but with plenty of energy to the cocoa powder, loam and spice flavors. The impressive, slowly building finish shows a distinctly saline character and a positive dryness. A fascinating wine of terroir, in need of patience.

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Clos des Lambrays is striking. Dark cherries, plums, wild berries, spices and licorice are woven together beautifully in this highly expressive, singular wine. A cool vein of minerality is a common thread as the wine continues to take shape in the glass. There is a beguiling, mysterious quality to the finish I find…