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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good full ruby-red. Slightly cooked red fruits (cherry, redcurrant), cedar and leather on the nose, plus a faint dusty quality. Nicely sweet and structured, with good intensity and shape. More complex than most ’82 Margaux bottlings. Firmly built wine, finishing with good grip and length.

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1979 Pichon-Lalande was born in an era when Michel Delon of Léoville Las-Cases assisted at the property and lent his magic touch. It has a lovely, leafy and autumnal bouquet plus touches of meat juices. Like the 1976, it seems founded on the Merlot rather than the Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a smooth texture,…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2009 Gruaud Larose is far superior to the previous vintage; interestingly, the first vintage is based on only Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There’s much more fruit concentration here, with blackberry and raspberry laced with iodine and incense. It is cohesive, though not as complex as the bottle four years ago. The palate is medium-bodied…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Cool aromas of blackberry and mint. Quite primary and unevolved today, with reasonably intense dark fruit flavors currently suppressed by a streak of acidity that gives the finish a dry edge. Seems a bit underripe/overripe today and is showing awkwardly.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Bousselots 1er Cru has quite a medicinal, camphor-tinged bouquet that is nicely defined if still a bit oaky. The palate is full-bodied and continues the medicinal theme, delivering sweet cassis and black cherry fruit with a heady finish.

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2008 Ornellaia continues to blossom in the bottle. Dark cherries, chocolate, espresso, blackberries and mocha are just some of the many notes that explode from the glass. A rich tapestry of licorice, tar and camphor notes develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity. The 2008 is a huge, structured Ornellaia endowed with massive structure….