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Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Malartic Lagravière is fabulous. Dark, ample and explosive, the 2020 offers an exciting mélange of dark fruit, lavender, spice and licorice. Even with all of its obvious size, the 2020 retains terrific freshness and plenty of delineation.

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Malartic Lagravière presents a refined nose of blackberry, raspberry, cedar and light estuarine aromas, very well defined and focused. The palate is framed by fine-grained tannins, and the pure blackberry and raspberry notes are laced with blood orange. Maybe just a little more granular in texture than before, but still wonderfully balanced, with…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Malartic Lagravière is a showy, voluptuous wine. Racy and explosive, the 2019 certainly makes a strong first impression. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, mocha, new leather, spice and licorice abound. As always, Malartic is a pretty forward, succulent Pessac-Léognan, but the 2019 is a bit strict today. Whether that is the vintage speaking or…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Yquem was tasted in Amsterdam, the first wine poured at a lunch, thereby allowing me a longer period to examine it. Slightly burnished in hue, it has a very attractive bouquet with scents of dried quince, clementine, linseed and subtle candle wax, perhaps more discrete than usual, but certainly fresh and vibrant. The…

Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses (Mar 2024)

The 2021 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes shows well despite the challenging vintage. One reason is that all the grapes that were not used for the Hermitage parcellaires went into this cuvée. Utilizing 25% new oak and the remainder up to fourth-fill during maturation, the 2021 sports a delicious floral lift alongside exuberant red fruits, cedar,…

Barbaresco’s Soaring 2020s & 2021s (Oct 2023)

The 2019 Barolo Pio is classy and nuanced to the core. Dried herbs, tobacco, mint, spice, orange peel, crushed flowers and sweet red cherry fruit all grace this enticing, layered Barolo. All the elements are very nicely balanced.