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2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2017 Barolo Cicala is a powerful, deep wine. Black cherry, menthol, tobacco, scorched earth, chocolate and searing tannins are some of the signatures. The Cicala has plenty of depth, but my instincts say it will mature before the tannins soften. I would prefer to drink this over the next decade, but readers need to…

Salvioni: Brunello di Montalcino 1985-2011 (May 2016)

Every bit as monumental as I had hoped, Salvioni’s 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is rich, towering and explosive, with fabulous depth and intensity. Dark cherry, smoke, spice, leather and plum gradually open up in a powerful Brunello that still needs time to soften. Epic in its dimension, the 2006 remains one of the very best…

2006 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2011)

Good bright deep red. High-pitched aromas of blackberry, dark cherry compote, violet and woodsmoke. Dense, sweet and highly concentrated, with lush flavors of dark raspberry and minerals. Extraordinarily seamless wine with an explosive back half displaying great breadth and length, considerable power and a late hint of underbrush. A beauty.

Salvioni: Brunello di Montalcino 1985-2011 (May 2016)

Dark, rich and enveloping, the 2007 Brunello di Montalcino races across the palate with stunning depth and richness. The flamboyance and opulence of the year come through loud and clear. Given its breadth and pure intensity, the 2007 is likely to drink well for quite some time. On this night, it is absolutely gorgeous.

Brunello di Montalcino 2007 and 2006 Riserva (Jul 2012)

Good full red. Perfumed, complex but subdued nose offers cherry, raspberry, coffee, mocha and minerals. Densely packed and sweet but backward for 2007, a bit youthfully clenched in the mid-palate. Finishes chewy and powerful, with serious mounting tannins, a blast of red fruits and complicating notes of menthol and licorice. For the cellar.

Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution (Feb 2024)

The 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Sant’Urbano is a seductress, with a wildly fresh yet sweetly alluring bouquet that blends crushed black cherries, blueberries, balsamic spices and violet florals. This is cool-toned yet dense and powerful, with depths of dark red and blue fruits that saturate the senses as a twang of sour orange adds…