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2014 Barolo: Surprise, Surprise… (Feb 2018)

The 2014 Barolo Sperss is an attractive wine from Gaja’s vineyards in Serralunga. There is good depth to the succulent black cherry, plum, smoke and licorice flavors, although it doesn’t quite have the explosiveness or power of the very best years. Because of the wine’s slender personality, the oak is a bit more evident than…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pavillon Rouge has a delightful, elegant bouquet with wild strawberry, blackberry and cedar aromas, very well defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, veins of blue fruit emerging with time in the glass and with just a touch of salted liquorice towards the finish. This could be à point. Tasted…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good deep red. Rather wild aromas of spicy cassis, scorched earth, minerals and truffle, plus a resiny nuance. Broad, lush and powerful for a second wine, with creamy dark berry, graphite and underbrush flavors of noteworthy intensity. I find more porcini than fresh fruit here, and the tannins are still youthfully chewy, but this is…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(66% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 4% petit verdot, a 38% selection for the grand vin; 14% alcohol) Deep ruby. D elicate cassis, violet and inky aromas show an earthy, almost animal nuance. Then clean, dense and tight on the palate, with flavors similar to the aromas. Finishes smooth and long, with hints of dark…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Clinet has an impressive and complex bouquet with liquorice and truffle infused black fruit, hints of desiccated orange peel and even a dab of honey. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe, succulent, and fine tannins (although not as fine as the 2009 La Conseillante) with a dense, precocious and heady finish. There is…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Deep medium ruby. Blackberry, blueberry and licorice on the nose, lifted by a violet topnote. At once hefty and penetrating, with lovely depth and breadth to the black fruit flavors. A bit youthfully medicinal today and not yet particularly complex but shows the sweetness of the vintage in spades. Finishes with substantial ripe tannins and…