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Dom Ruinart at Cru, New York (Oct 2008)

Among the wines of the 1990s, I especially liked the 1993 Dom Ruinart, which was beautiful, especially considering this was an original disgorgement. Layers of honeyed fruit, licorice and mint were woven together in a captivating fabric. We also caught this wine at near peak, as it was firing on all cylinders. What a beautiful…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Léoville-Barton is clearly one of the wines of the vintage. Powerful and strapping in the glass, the 2005 is a big, big wine. Huge swaths of tannin wrap around a core of inky black fruit, new leather, spice, gravel, mocha and licorice. The wine’s sheer density is impressive, but its balance is even…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep ruby. Wonderfully perfumed nose offers cassis, minerals, tobacco, flowers, mocha and truffle. Bright, mineral-driven and concentrated, with terrific underlying backbone giving energy and definition to the dark berry, mineral and chocolate flavors. There’s a floral lift here that’s exhilarating to find in the very ripe 2005 vintage. Finishes very long and classy, with a…

The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 2006 Rauzan-Ségla actually showed a touch more maturation on the rim compared to the 2004! This bottle was consistent with several encounters in the past, including my ten-year on retrospectives. Harvested from September 21 to October 7, it has an open and expressive bouquet with blackberry, cedar and just a touch of graphite. The…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright red-ruby. Aromas of boysenberry, licorice and cedary, nutty oak lifted by a floral topnote. Juicy, dry and vinous; not a particularly fleshy wine but elegant, high-pitched and sexy, with lovely energy giving clarity to the sappy dark fruit, licorice and oak flavors. Finishes with firm tannins and very good sneaky persistence. Classic claret. Not…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Larrivet Haut-Brion feels a little pinched on the nose, quite backward with black cherry and light black olive scents, becoming more marine like with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, slightly grainy in texture with brown spices sprinkled over the structured finish that feels a little bitter and rustic. Not sure…