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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Dark ruby-red. The nose begins a bit aromatically compressed, even warm, but opens with air to reveal lovely aromas of ripe red cherry, sweet spices and truffle. Then rich and ripe in the mouth, with slightly chunky flavors of red and black fruits and a hint of tarry tobacco. Finishes creamy and long, but nonetheless…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Clinet has a clean and precise bouquet, more backward than I expected. Beautiful black cherry and raspberry fruit with just a hint of dried blood, ferrous notes in the background (this bottle less opulent than the one at Farr’s tasting.) The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, well judged acidity, hints of…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Marsannay Clos du Roy has a light and quite floral bouquet of violet-tinged red fruit; maybe just a hint of volatility here. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit. This sample came across a little oakier than I would have liked on the entry. Hopefully that will be absorbed by the time…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2014 Cristal is a dark horse, a wine built along linear lines rather than opulence, and from a year that generated very little enthusiasm at the time. A cold, wet summer and attacks from the Suzuki fly at harvest were among the challenges producers dealt with. And yet, the best wines turned out far…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

Delamotte’s 2012 Brut Vintage is rich, creamy and super-expressive. This is only the second vintage (the first was 2008) in which fruit from Oiry rounds out the classic core of Le Mesnil, Oger and Cramant that forms the backbone of the Vintage. Dried pear, white flowers, chamomile and mint are some of the notes that…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Larcis Ducasse is a dark, brooding wine. The 2021 feels a bit pushed, something I am not used to saying about this cru. The 2021 is more power than finesse. Black fruit, leather, spice, cloves and licorice are front and center. Ultimately, the 2021 is heavy, with little of the nuance or sophistication…