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2013 Germany (Mar 2015)

Golden yellow. Ethereal aromas of strawberry, acacia honey and brown spices waft over delicate smoky botrytis. Deft, sweet apricot fruit with refined acidity give this wine an airy texture in spite of its honeyed depth. Intense minerality ensures a convincingly long and spicy finish. A great effort, this is one of the finest Ausleses made…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Good bright, deep red. Sexy, deep nose offers cherry, smoke, dried rose and minerals. Plump, round, seamless and deep, with compelling sweetness to the cherry, raspberry, spice and mocha flavors. For all its sweetness, this terrific Barolo is remarkably penetrating too. The extremely long, palate-staining finish features big but sweet tannins that softened with time…

Mosel 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (Jun 2017)

A haunting nose conveys ripe white peach, rowan, and almond extract as well as a decadent suggestion of lily perfume. This sets up an expectation of creaminess and enveloping richness that is not entirely confounded on the palate, but an intense alliance of brightly juicy fresh lime and piquant peach kernel provides a remarkable sense…

Cellar Favorite: 2012 Château Latour (Apr 2020)

The 2015 Le Pauillac de Château Latour has gone up in my estimation since I tasted it from barrel. It has a fleshy, ripe, raspberry, blackberry and boysenberry scented nose, a little smudged with subtle hints of marmalade in the background. It is open and inviting. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and well…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Latour’s 2015 Pauillac is gorgeous. Deep, pliant and super-expressive, the 2015 is utterly captivating. Silky tannins wrap around a core of fruit as this radiant, inviting wine shows off its charms. There is a level of purity to the 2015 that is remarkable. In the past, the Pauillac has at times been a bit wild….

Keller Excellence (Mar 2023)

A flower shop amalgam of flowers and foliage greets the nose, along with fresh pear, lime, and chalk intimations. The penetratingly high-toned 2018 rendition had conjured for me “Scheurebe meets Chablis.” This 2020 is perhaps subtler, and its nuances are more diverse. The polished yet firm palate introduces mouthwatering salinity. Even at 12.5% alcohol –…