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2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Larcis Ducasse has turned out better than I expected. It is a shy, introverted Larcis built along super-classic lines—the sort of Saint-Émilion that will emerge only with a number of years in bottle. Spice, tobacco, cedar, menthol, licorice and dried herbs all build effortlessly in the glass. This is such a classy, elegant…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Larcis Ducasse has a more restrained bouquet compared to recent vintages, showing black plum, blackcurrant, vanilla pod and violet scents. There’s opulence here, but it’s compressed. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, a bit angular at first with cola and brown spices. Linear toward the finish with fine sustain, it doesn’t quite…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Larcis Ducasse was picked from 29 September until 11 October at a respectable 34hL/ha, representing 65% of the total production this year. It has an almost gentle, atypically understated bouquet with brambly red fruit, wilted rose petal and light undergrowth scents. The palate is linear and structured, far removed from the occasionally opulent…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Bélair-Monange shows wonderful delineation and focus on the nose, which presents a cornucopia of red fruit, crushed stone, wilted rose petal and light black truffle aromas. It seems to gain complexity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, fine delineation and a velvety texture. This builds toward a lavish…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Bélair-Monange opens with an attractive burst of fruit. Some of that initial intensity tapers off rather quickly, leaving the 2019 feeling a bit one-dimensional. This showed much better from barrel. The jury is still out for me on Bélair-Monange. I don't see the same quality as is found in neighboring estates nor in…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Bélair-Monange has a more tertiary nose, backward and broody, almost Left Bank in style. This demands much more coaxing from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly chocolaty opening. The oak a little too thick maybe? Plenty of fruit behind it, quite plush on the finish, but missing the intellect that…