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Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(an approximation of the final blend): Bright, deep red. Very pure but reserved aromas of raspberry, crushed rock, rose petal, spices, mocha and tobacco, lifted by a calcaire pungency. Compellingly silky and seamless but with terrific energy and subtle intensity to its dense flavors of red berries, dark cherry, spices and powdered stone, complicated by…

Ironing Out The Kinks: Jim Barry The Armagh 1985-2021 (Jun 2024)

The 2013 Shiraz The Armagh immediately draws you in with a wild mix of violets, peppermint, sage and Australian garrigue over a blackberry backbone, which provide an intriguing but delicious introduction. It then tightens up, with firm claret tannins and chalky acidity adding tension to this youthful and lengthy package. Dark berry flavors retain their…

South Australia, Victoria and a Bit Beyond (Sep 2022)

Inky ruby. A hugely perfumed, expansive bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, candied violet, incense and mocha, and an exotic Indian spice flourish builds slowly with air. Appealingly sweet and palate-coating, offering densely packed cassis, blueberry and cherry liqueur flavors complemented by suave vanilla and five-spice powder accents. For all its mass, this wine…

Daniel Thomases on Tuscany (Jul 2000)

Full black-ruby. Very ripe, complex aromas of raspberry and blackberry, along with licorice, creme anglaise and nicely integrated oak. Explosive on the palate: very dense and rich and notably more alcoholic than usual, with warm, enveloping flavors of berry fruit and light oak. Finishes firmly tannic, yet velvety and very long. Offers strong potential.

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru has a beautifully-defined bouquet. However, I had to afford my glass 10 minutes of gentle swirling to unlock the crushed stone, lemon skin and blackcurrant leaf scents. The palate is balanced with supremely well integrated oak, just the right amount of sapidity and spiciness. A very persistent finish fans out…