Archives: Product Reviews

Woocommerce product reviews

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has a reductive bouquet, opening with aeration. It’s minerally with chalk dust and flint. This feels a little suppressed by the SO2 at the moment, but wow, it just soars when I return to the glass after ten minutes. The palate is well-balanced with good concentration, unapologetically backward. It’s…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru had been blended the week prior to my visit and therefore the nose was impossible to read. The palate is balanced with plenty of freshness, but I will defer judgment until the wine is more settled.

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Inky ruby. Smoke- and mineral-accented black and blue fruits, violet, licorice and an olive nuance on the deeply perfumed nose. Stains the palate with intense cherry, blueberry and fruitcake flavors that are sharpened by a spicy touch of cracked pepper. Youthfully chewy tannins frame an impressively long, penetrating finish that leaves candied dark berry and…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Village comes from 50 different plots around 50 years old, the majority planted at the end of the 1960s. The simple but well-defined bouquet of Granny Smith apples is light and airy. The palate is crisp and taut with citrus lemon and saline notes. Very citric on the finish, and not long,…

Cellar Favorite: 1960, 1974 and New Releases of Château Musar (Apr 2023)

The 2017 Château Musar has a perfumed bouquet with well-defined plummy red fruit, fireside embers and pressed flower scents. A hint of VA in the background gives the aromatics a welcome kick. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and well-judged acidity, harmonious, not powerful, yet full of flavor. A pleasing bitterness surfaces towards the…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

I was quite critical of the 2019 L’Évangile when I tasted it as a barrel sample, and of course the winemaking team has changed since this was made. The 2019 has a very floral bouquet of ripe dark berry fruit infused with violet and peony notes. The 15.3° alcohol has slightly blurred the edges since…