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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1979 Ducru-Beaucaillou, a vintage that I have not encountered before, has a light and innocuous bouquet, mint-tinged black fruit, quite herbal but actually better than some more revered vintages of the Eighties. The palate is medium-bodied with a herbal entry, moderate weight, rustic but showing less dryness on the finish that expected. It’s an…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Deep red. Incredibly complex, wild bouquet of red fruit liqueur, botanical herbs, fresh and dried lavender, anise, smoked game and minerals. Round, sweet and impossibly deep, offering a smorgasbord of ripe red and dark berry flavors complicated by candied licorice, floral pastilles and succulent herbs. Becomes more vibrant on the finish, leaving a broad swath…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

Full medium ruby. Sappy, liqueur-like red fruits and pepper on the nose. Dense and liquoreux, with very primary, sappy red fruit flavors. Still quite unevolved but already shows terrific volume and a silky texture. This should be a very strong vintage.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Château l’Evangile has a little more exoticism on the nose compared to the 2012 La Fleur de Gay that preceded it: dark chocolate and camphor scents, coalescing nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and acidity, sour cherries mixed with white pepper and a gentle grip with hints of leather…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(93% merlot and 7% cabernet franc; 31 h/h; 73% grand vin): Very deep purple-ruby. Intense aromas of cassis, plum, bay leaf, minerals and aromatic herbs. Beautiful silky texture on entry, then wonderfully supple in the middle, with the blueberry and blackcurrant syrup flavors lingering impressively on the back end. Finishes with rising but smooth tannins…