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Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru has a reductive bouquet that, at the moment, occludes the terroir expression and mineralité. But I feel there is a complex and involving wine underneath, and it just needs bottle age. The palate is well-balanced, with a tangy entry and fine acidity. It’s peppery in style…

Focus on California (May 2003)

Deep ruby-red. High-toned aromas of dusty currant, black raspberry, graphite and minerals. Very suave, minerally and vibrant, but less obviously ripe and smaller-scaled than the great ’99, which showed explosive aromatics, remarkable breadth and texture, and great inner-mouth energy in early March, meriting 95 points. With a bit less mid-palate thickness and extract, the tannins…

Cellar Favorite: 2000 Harlan Estate (Aug 2015)

The 2000 Harlan Estate is in a beautiful place today. Soft, open-knit and nicely mellowed by age, the 2000 is absolutely gorgeous, with soft contours to match is engaging personality. Mocha, black cherries, leather and spice are all quite forward in this succulent Harlan Estate. The 2000 might not be a profound Harlan Estate, but…

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2017 Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn is a tightly wound and austere wine that is going to need at least a few years to soften. Today, it is decidedly tight and lighter in body than is customary. Last year, the 2017 had more body, but it seems to have lost some of that depth since then….

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has a warm bouquet. There’s more red fruit here, with floral scents emerging—violet and peony—fine delineation and nicely integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly edgier tannins, fine structure, a little more peppery in style (possibly due to the whole bunch), gentle grip, and…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has a lovely dark plummy bouquet, kirsch and a touch of liquorice, perhaps a little sur-maturité. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, black cherries, hints of peppermint with a cassis finish. Maybe this just doesn’t quite deliver the persistency that I anticipated when I…