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Against All Odds: Washington State’s 2020s and 2019s (Mar 2023)

Dried and spiced lemon rinds, wet stone, vanilla bean and hints of petrol keep me coming back to the glass again and again as the 2019 Dry Riesling Eroica XLC slowly comes to life. It’s silky and potent, with masses of ripe yellow and green citrus that leans more toward the tropical spectrum with each…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 L’Enclos has a very attractive bouquet that leans towards more black fruit than red, with light tarry scents in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly bitter black fruit on the entry with touches of cedar and black pepper. I found just a little dryness on the finish, suggesting that this Pomerol…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes has a fresh and vibrant nose with citrus peel, orange pith and yellow flower scents. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, a little reduced with a pithy finish reminiscent of a Jean-Noël Gagnard. Good substance here – I can see this ageing nicely.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Charmes has a crisp, granitic nose, nicely focused, just a bit lean compared to other vintages. The palate is well balanced with fresh acidity, lovely lemon sherbet and lemon thyme notes on a delineated, saline finish. Fine.

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a supremely gifted bouquet: exquisite definition, wonderful mineralité, and real intensity, but so much purity and tension. The palate is flinty on the entry, fresh and vibrant with a sparkling mineralité and gentle grip, gaining weight and concentration towards the finish. The persistence is fabulous here, a truly great…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru has quite a floral bouquet mainly featuring red fruit, cranberry and redcurrant notes. It's not as concentrated as the previous vintage yet it's well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a hint of crunchy red fruit, a twist of sour lemon and plenty of energy, with…