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’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Bright violet. Mineral-laced cherry and dark berry scents are complemented by cracked pepper and smoky bacon flourishes. Sweet, broad and concentrated in the mouth, offering energetic blackberry, cassis and bitter chocolate flavors and an enlivening jolt of peppery spices. Shows very good focus and spicy lift on the finish, which features chewy tannins and repeating…

Rioja Looks Back and Ahead (Feb 2019)

(aged for two years in a combination of new and used French and American oak barrels) Bright ruby. Expressive aromas of ripe red fruits and candied flowers, along with allspice, vanilla and pipe tobacco topnotes. Juicy and appealingly sweet, offering juicy black raspberry, cherry-vanilla and mocha flavors and a spicy nuance that emerges as the…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Bonnes-Mares is simply magnificent. Light on its feet and graceful, as it so often is, the 2011 graces the palate with simply extraordinary finesse. Dark cherries, plums, graphite, cloves and menthol continue to blossom as the wine opens up in the glass.

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Bright medium red. Briary crushed raspberry, white pepper and peony on the nose, accented by a piquant note of blood orange. Juicy, precise and penetrating, with lovely cut to the red fruit and spice flavors. Little greenness or earthiness showing. Finishes spicy, brisk, firm and very long. A great showing today; I might have picked…

2016 Barolo: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2020)

The 2016 Barolo Le Vigne is brilliant and explosive in the glass, with tons of brightness, energy and tension. Classically austere, the 2016 is going to take a few years to be at its best, and yet the wine is so arrestingly beautiful today. A mix of freshly cut and dried flowers, mint and pine…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright medium red. Dark cherry, raspberry and flowers on the nose, plus a whiff of earth. Much tighter in the mouth than the Chambolle villages but already wonderfully suave and perfumed, showing a dusty, tactile quality and a lovely balance of sweet and saline elements. The dark raspberry and menthol flavors carry impressively on the…