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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Canon is a little disappointing on the nose in the context of a strong Right Bank flight. It feels a little loose-knit, lacks the same pixelation as its peers. It almost reminds me of a mature Chambolle-Musigny! The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly minty opening. Matters improve with fine structure, gentle grip…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good dark red. Expressive, complex aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, iron and flowers; showing its cabernet franc side today. Then juicy, minerally and tightly wound, displaying lovely delicacy and grip to its red fruit and floral flavors. Finishes gripping and taut, with talc-like chalky tannins and a light touch. Very gracefully made wine–and hardly a blockbuster….

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Deep, bright red. Offers an extra dimension on the nose, with captivating sappy red fruits, minerals, blood orange, clove, menthol and bitter chocolate. Enters the mouth thick and opulent, then wonderfully dense and seamless in the middle, with compelling sweetness and piquant minerality. The back half of the wine shows the powerful, structured side of…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2006 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a rambunctious nose with raspberry ripple and crushed strawberry scents, though it doesn’t fully have the complexity of other vintages. The palate is chewy, slightly muscular and impressively dense. It’s surly on the finish with markedly dry tannins that don’t urge you back for more. It’s the…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep medium ruby. Wonderfully perfumed, fresh aromas of blackberry, raspberry, licorice, spices and violet pastille. Brilliantly pure and energetic, with outstanding flavor intensity and inner-mouth perfume. Still an infant today, with primary black fruits dominating. But this has the spicy, floral perfume of the greatest vintages of this wine. The ripely tannic, palate-saturating finish…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Tertre-Rôteboeuf is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. You would be hard pressed to discern whether you are in the presence of a great Burgundy or a great Bordeaux on the nose as it delivers exquisitely pure brambly red fruit laced with minerals. The palate is actually structured and…