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Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Medium yellow. Subtly complex nose melds peach, honeysuckle, vanilla, marzipan and caramelly oak tones. Fat, sweet and honeyed, with enticing, concentrated flavors of toffee, nutmeg and vanilla. A firmly built midweight, with some spicy oak giving the finish a youthfully dry edge.

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 57% cabernet sauvignon, 23% merlot and 20% cabernet franc; 14.6% alcohol) Deep ruby-purple. Brooding, closed nose hints at strawberry, ripe red cherry, white pepper, minerals and violet; showing its cabernet franc element today. Rich and full on entry, displaying lovely depth to its ripe red fruit, underbrush and tobacco flavors. Harmonious acidity…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2010 Haut-Brion is a bit of a monster at the moment. I don’t mean that pejoratively. Black fruit, melted tar and Earl Grey soar on the nose, perhaps showing a little more mineralité than prior bottles. The palate is huge (more concentrated than the 2010 La Mission served alongside); it’s almost burly and grippy…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good full ruby-red. Complex, expressive, very showy aromas and flavors of cassis, menthol, smoke and tobacco complemented by violet, milk chocolate and sweet spices. Fat, sweet and concentrated in the mouth, with an almost liqueur-like ripeness to its highly concentrated, palate-saturating flavors. Finishes ripe and savory, with huge but plush tannins and lingering notes of…

Opus One – Past, Present and Future: 1979-2012 (Jun 2013)

I expected the 2006 Opus One to be more reticent than it actually is. Dark plums, black cherries, licorice, tar and smoke all take shape as the 2006 opens up in the glass. Overall, this is a supple Opus One with good complexity but less of the personality of the best wines of the year….

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2009)

(a five-variety Bordeaux blend based on 77% cabernet sauvignon) Saturated deep ruby. Cassis, bitter chocolate and sexy smoky oak on the nose. Dense and sweet but firmly structured, with lovely inner-mouth aromatic quality giving the wine sappy lift. Pure, penetrating flavors of cassis, lead pencil and bitter chocolate, with a sexy oak quality that I…