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Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

Philippe Dhalluin served the 1986 Mouton Rothschild to wrap up our vertical. The 1986 remains one of my favorite Moutons. A dark, powerful wine, the 1986 is endowed with a vertical sense of structure that is a marvel to behold. Dark stone fruit, smoke, graphite, mocha, soy and licorice are fused together in a marvelously…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 8% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; pH 3.54; IPT 66; 12.5% alcohol; 90% new oak; an 80% selection): Very deep, saturated ruby with only a hint of garnet at the rim. Ripe red and black fruits, mint, vanilla, minerals and delicate black pepper on the captivating nose. Very rich,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good medium ruby. Currant, currant leaf, cedar and dusty oak on the nose. Tightly wound and classic, with fabulous acids contributing to its powerful spine. Wonderfully pure and intense, with great verve and grip. But still quite locked up, and hiding its density. Finishes firmly tannic and extremely long. I remember mistaking the ’86 Mouton…

Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

The 1982 Lafite-Rothschild was a bottle with impeccable provenance, having been stored at the renowned La Tour d’Argent restaurant for its entire lifetime before being auctioned. Backward and youthful on the nose, this is intense with black fruit infused with cedar and graphite, gaining delineation with time yet still warning that it’s being broached too…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

Tasted from magnum, the 2013 Cristal Rosé is ravishing. Dense, creamy and powerful, the 2013 captures all the qualities of the vintage, specifically the interplay of rich fruit from the warm summer and cooler inflections from a year that started late and ended late with a rare October harvest. Today, the 2013 is deep and…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)

(a blend of 71% cabernet sauvignon and 29% merlot): Fully saturated ruby-purple with inky highlights. Captivating nose of cassis, violet, gunflint and aromatic herbs; this struck me as being very dominated by its cabernet component. Fresh, rich and dense, with palate-staining flavors of dark berries, coffee and cocoa complicated by ink and graphite. Very complex…