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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Château Margaux is a First Growth that I had not tasted for several years. According to the estate, it finally began to open during the pandemic. I remember this was stellar in its flush of youth, and earned a three-figure score from the Southwold blind tasting way back in 2009. Now at two…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has a warm bouquet. There’s more red fruit here, with floral scents emerging—violet and peony—fine delineation and nicely integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly edgier tannins, fine structure, a little more peppery in style (possibly due to the whole bunch), gentle grip, and…

Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur (April 2024)

The 2023 Mouton Rothschild is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintages on the Left Bank. Its balance of intense, super-concentrated fruit and equally imposing structure is spellbinding. Dark red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, pencil shavings and dried herbs gain intensity in the glass. I especially admire its vertical build and…

The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023 (Apr 2024)

The 2023 Mouton Rothschild was picked from September 7 to 30 and contains 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, the second highest ever (after the 2010). Matured entirely in new oak as usual, this has an intense, floral bouquet with violet petals infusing the black fruit and touches of licorice loitering just off stage—very fine delineation. The palate…

2017 New Releases From Spain, Part 1 (Jan 2017)

(aged for nine years in American oak barrels and then held in bottle for a minimum of eight years before release) Brilliant red. A highly complex, expansive bouquet evokes cherry liqueur, pipe tobacco, incense, vanilla and woodsmoke, accompanied by hints of five-spice powder and licorice in the background. Sweet, expansive and seamless in texture, offering…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is one of the most shut down of the whites in this vast range. Mineral and savory notes abound, but fruit is decidedly pushed into the background. Citrus confit, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper all race across the palate. There’s quite a bit of youthful…