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Fontodi: Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 1985-2010 (Feb 2014)

Fontodi’s 1999 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo is another dazzling wine. Rich, powerful and intense, the 1999 brings to mind the 2006 in its ample, full-bodied, structured personality. Hints of mocha and chocolate from the slightly higher-toast barrels that were typical of the era add complexity, nuance and depth. Violets, tar and licorice inform…

Germany 2012 (Jan 2014)

Sumptuous aromas of dried apricot, blackberry and oyster shell, complicated by a smoky, herbal character. Dense passion fruit and finely polished minerality animate the palate. Rich, elegant and spicy on the persistent finish, this will certainly improve with bottle age.

Advantage Nahe: 2016 Riesling Excellence (Apr 2018)

Predictably, Hermannshöhle is once again intriguingly complex. Gentian, buddleia, thyme, smoky black tea, white peach and lime mingle on the nose, then reconvene on a fleshy, full-bodied yet compactly concentrated and brightly juicy palate. The formidable finish displays greater piquancy, underlying stoniness and sheer grip albeit not quite the same vibrancy as its Dellchen sibling….

2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases (Oct 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Francia is dense, rich and explosive right out of the gate. There is virtually no feeling of tannin, as the creaminess of the fruit is so expansive. Bright red cherry fruit, blood orange, kirsch, sage and menthol gradually appear as the 2017 starts to open in the glass. In 2017, Francia is…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Dark red cherries, plums, smoke and licorice all meld together in the 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Pruliers. There is plenty of richness and depth in the glass, but the tannins are equally huge and imposing. Today, the Pruliers comes across as a bit austere. It will be interesting to see how the Pruliers develops over the…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Good bright, dark red. Discreet, pure, rather reticent nose offers red cherry and raspberry. Juicy, minerally and a bit youthfully imploded, offering terrific density and lift to the flavors of raspberry, strawberry and minerals. Lifted by a distinctly floral character I did not find in the last couple of samples. Solid and densely packed but…