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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(72% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot, 4.5% petit verdot and 3.5% cabernet franc; 3.75 pH; 13% alcohol): Bright ruby-red. Intense mocha and sweet spice notes complicate ripe dark cherry and macerated plum aromas on the very ripe, deep nose. Large-scaled and plush, with ripe but not cooked red and black fruit flavors. Surprisingly lively acidity and…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Sexy aromas of raspberry, mocha and milk chocolate. Fat, sweet, rich and full; a large-scaled, seamless wine with terrific volume. Just a hint of exotic roasted character on the palate-caressing finish. As appealing as this is right now, it appears to be shutting down in the bottle.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1966 Ducru-Beaucaillou has a mushroom, briny nose that is too herbal for my liking, lacking the panache of say, the 1966 Latour or 1966 Château Margaux (the latter tasted by chance just a couple of days before this.) The palate is medium-bodied with solid tannins, a little foursquare, serious and lacking a bit of…

Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013 (Aug 2022)

The 1967 Pichon-Lalande has a simple, light bouquet, rather smudged, a little fungal in style and showing signs of chaptalization. Not a million miles away from the 1967 Latour but with patently less nobility. The palate is soft on the entry, slightly low in acidity, quite rounded and fleshy, easy-drinking and almost Grenache like towards…

Napa Valley’s 2022 & 2023 Cabernet Sauvignons (Dec 2024)

The 2013 Opus One is a powerful, dense wine. A blast of dark-fleshed fruit, leather, spice, tobacco, menthol and licorice races across the palate. The 2013 still possesses notable textural depth. The aromatics are a bit open and also suggestive of a wine that has entered its first plateau of maturity.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru is very refined and pure on a nose featuring beautifully integrated oak, perfumed violets and iris petals with just a hint of iodine coming through. The palate is well balanced and fresh. Jean-Nicolas Méo commented that this sample was not showing as it ought to, and I agreed, which is…