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2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

(65% grenache, 20% mourvedre, 10% syrah and the rest the others) Deep red. Explosively perfumed nose offers a profound bouquet of red and dark berries, licorice, incense and musky underbrush. Broad, palate-staining raspberry and blackcurrant flavors are enveloped in velvety tannins, with suave anise and Asian spices adding complexity. A huge but balanced-even graceful-wine, with…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005: The Grand Backbone Vintage

The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is elegance personified, opening with dried herbs, cassis, tobacco and forest floor, complex but without any distracting mushroom tones. It shows superbly after 90 minutes in a carafe, full-bodied and concentrated with resolved tannins carrying the long, generous finale. Don’t pop and pour, as this wine demands patience to reveal its full…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru offers brambly red fruit and wild strawberry on the nose, plus a touch of earthiness that develops with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with quite fine but firm tannins that frame a serious Premier Cru. Grippy but focused with fine mineralité on the finish, the wine is…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(aging in 100% new oak, like the following grand crus): Deep red-ruby. Captivating floral lift to the fruit-driven aromas of black cherry and dark raspberry. Densely packed and energetic, with a subtle saline character adding interest to the intense flavors of black raspberry and licorice. These millerandé century-old vines yielded just 30 hectoliters per hectare…

Cellar Favorite: Champagne Louis Roederer – Inflection Points

The 2014 Cristal Rosé is fascinating to taste next to the 2015 and a few older vintages, as it is decidedly linear and taut, signatures that are typical of the year. Cranberry, chalk, mint, white pepper and blood orange are all finely sculpted. This is an especially fine showing. I imagine the 2014 will flesh…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1995 Montrose has a backward bouquet with mainly red berry fruit, stewed black tea and brown spices, terracotta scents emerging with time. There is fine delineation; initially quite backward, as Montrose often can be, though it opens with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine weight, beautifully balanced, somehow quite “soothing” in…