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2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

Deep, bright red. Subtle, pure nose offers black raspberry, black cherry, mint, menthol and a hint of citrus skin. Wonderfully silky and sweet but the black fruit flavors come off more savory than sugary owing to the wine’s strong limestone character. Finishes sappy, uncompromisingly dry and very long, with firm tannins and lovely mineral and…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Very pale yellow-green color. Nose dominated by lime, crushed stone and steely minerality. Densely packed and almost painfully dry, with taut, penetrating citrus and mineral flavors showing more energy than flesh today. This ungiving grand cru has plenty of depth and flavor intensity but is an infant today. The stony, austere finish is like touching…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2010 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is just a joy from start to finish. It has an alluring, open and crystalline bouquet that blossoms in the glass, vivacious red fruit, touches of damp undergrowth and spellbinding mineralité. Touches of shucked oyster shells develop with time. The palate is beautifully balanced with more depth…

Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

Good medium red. Captivating aromas of black cherry, dark raspberry, minerals and flowers have shed the reductive character that made this wine difficult to taste shortly after the bottling. Juicy, penetrating and wonderfully elegant, delivering outstanding flavor intensity without any impression of heaviness. Red berry, red cherry and flowers dominate the middle palate, with an…

Marquis d’Angerville: Volnay Clos des Ducs 1920-2010 (Dec 2016)

Harvested 23-27 September: Heavy reduction on the nose makes this difficult to appreciate at first, but as the reduction blows off it is easier to savor the beautiful red and black fruit underneath. The 2010 is a very structured Ducs. I don’t expect it to drink early, but it should be a great bottle by…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Volnay Clos des Ducs is a wonderfully complete wine. Layers of sculpted, chiseled fruit flow gracefully as the Clos des Ducs opens up in the glass. Dark red cherries, licorice, spices and cedar are given an attractive lift by the expressive floral notes that are woven throughout. This is a beautifully centered, poised…