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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Echézeaux Grand Cru has an understated, precise bouquet, fleeting glimpses of Dorset plum and raspberry, white-tipped strawberry, focused and developing subtle floral aromas with time. Surprisingly lively and almost spicy on the palate thanks to a dash of white pepper, what I appreciate here is its gentle grip and salinity on its harmonious…

Vinous Table: Noble Rot Soho, London, UK (Sep 2020)

To baptize the new restaurant, one of our generous guests proffered a magnum of 1982 Grand Puy Lacoste. It is a few years since I last tasted this Pauillac but it remains a magnificent wine. Limpid and youthful, it displayed very little ageing compared to other 1982s, partly due to the larger format. The bouquet…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Reticent aromas of plum, currant, mint and cedar. Dry, penetrating and stylish, with very primary flavors and noteworthy vinosity. Classic claret intensity and grip without any excess weight. The flavors build impressively on the firmly tannic, youthfully tough finish. This bottle was still a few years away from full maturity and should…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1982 Grand-Puy-Lacoste continues to dazzle. This is in such a good place at the moment. From a regular bottle this time, it has a gorgeous blackberry, cedar and pencil box-scented bouquet that revs up with aeration. Pure & classic. The palate is wonderfully balanced; the tannins have finally polymerized to lend this 1982 the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Grand-Puy-Lacoste put in a magnificent performance where it looks the First Growths in the eye and challenges their supposed superiority. This is unquestionably the best of a two-dozen-plus bottle enjoyed over the years. It is brilliantly focused and intense on the nose with black fruit, cedar and graphite – quintessentially Pauillac, undimmed by…

2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

Presented in three components, as is Reynaud’s custom. #1: High-pitched red berry and floral aromas show superb purity and focus. Racy, crisp and concentrated, offering intense raspberry and cherry flavors and a bracing mineral nuance. Finishes long and spicy, with a whiplash of zesty minerality and lingering red fruit. #2: Deeper and darker in profile,…