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Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) is fascinating to taste, as it is quite different in style from the original release. Because of the extra three years or so on the lees, the 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) has picked up a reductive note that is not typical of Cristal. Scents of lime, crushed rock, lemon and…

Paso Robles: Seductive 2018s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

Bright ruby-red. A complex, spice-accented bouquet displays cherry cola, blackberry, vanilla and lavender scents. Expressive, appealingly sweet red and blue fruit, floral pastille and spicecake flavors are complemented by a suggestion of smoky minerality. Shows fine definition and powerful, spicy lift on a strikingly long, gently tannic finish that strongly echoes the floral and red…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Blanc de Lynch-Bages, which was bottled 10 days prior to my visit, has a delightful bouquet with white peach and light orange pith scents. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, though I just need a little more weight (more Sémillon?) to fill out the finish. 12.98% alcohol.

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Blanc de Lynch Bages is terrific. The move to increase the Sauvignon Blanc and decrease the Muscadelle yields a white endowed with notable energy and brightness, a style I personally like quite a bit.

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2019 Magnetic North is matured in cement eggs and used oak barrels. It has a lovely bouquet of peach skin, melted candle wax and light orange blossom scents that is simply irresistible. The aromatics are beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied and full of tension and energy, with a fine bead of acidity and…

Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Youthful violet. Powerful, smoke- and mineral-accented black and blue fruits and incense on the explosively perfumed nose. Stains the palate with sweet blueberry, cherry, violet pastille and spicecake flavors that show superb depth as well as vivacity. Seamless and alluringly sweet; a core of juicy acidity adds lift and spine. Supple tannins build steadily on…