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South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2017 Columella has an outgoing, intense bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit mixed with sage, tobacco and thyme, that seems a little smudged initially but gains clarity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, plenty of red berry fruit, a generous sprinkling of white pepper and a hint of fennel….

Gala Dinner at the World Wine Symposium (Jan 2014)

Vega Sicilia’s 2008 Tinto Valbuena 5 Anos is compelling. A young, intense wine, the 2008 is going to need significant time to fully come together, but it boasts superb depth, persistence and a total sense of harmony. Hints of cedar, tobacco and sweet spices wrap around an intense core of dark fruit.

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

In this context, the 1998 Dom Pérignon Rosé comes across as a touch slender and compact, with early signs of oxidation and textures that are quickly moving towards being fully resolved. On its own, I imagine the 1998 Rosé might show better and be quite enjoyable, but in this setting, its proper place in history…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Orange-pink. Redcurrant, cherry, dried flowers, botanical herbs and minerals on the nose. Pliant red fruit and poached pear flavors are lifted by smoky minerals; benefited greatly from aeration, picking up floral pastille and anise qualities. A rather open-knit version of this always complex bottling, finishing with gentle grip and a suave echo of flowers and…

Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ Bouchon Racine, London, UK (Oct 2024)

Finally, the 1990 Latour is a vintage that I have not drunk for five years. It is surprisingly youthful on the nose, with dense black fruit, cedar, violet petals and graphite, and it is less opulent than previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with beautiful poise, and the tannins are more polymerized than the magnum…

Cellar Favorite: 1990 Château Latour (Nov 2019)

Tasting the 1990 Latour is like running into a long-lost friend. Still dark, deep and spectacularly flamboyant, the 1990 possesses remarkable textural richness from the very first taste. Time in the glass brings out a whole range of pencil shaving, dark fruit, chocolate, licorice and spice flavors, but more than anything else, the 1990 is…