Archives: Product Reviews

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2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Cherry, menthol and saline, smoky minerality on the nose and palate, with the wine’s oak element currently blocking its aromatic purity. Then spicy, dry and quite closed in the mid-palate, but with a penetrating, sappy quality to the rather glyceral flavors. Dense but backward wine, finishing with serious dusty tannins. Showed a purer cherry character…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1995 Yquem is deep gold in colour. According to the estate, potential alcohol levels shot up from 16° at the beginning of harvest to 30° within two weeks. The bouquet bursts from the glass, as before, quite Barsac-like in style with white peach, tangerine, acacia and saffron, a touch of candle wax with time….

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 2003 Léoville-Poyferré has always been one of this infamous vintage’s success stories. Perhaps in recent years it has lost some of its vigour on the nose with black plum, brown spices, leather and that light Bovril aroma, but there is better delineation than many others. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and quite…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Medium ruby-red. Extravagant aromas of currant, loam, leather and graphite; like the 1990 in its roasted character. Then sweet and dense but with surprising aromatic lift in the mouth, not to mention considerable power. Liqueur-like black fruit, licorice and mineral flavors really stain the palate. Cuvelier maintained that this vintage was not acidified. The cabernet…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Trotanoy has a more complex bouquet than the 2014 Gazin, with more Pomerol DNA in the mix, iron-tinged red berry fruit, black truffle and cedar. Fine delineation and quintessentially Pomerol. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and harmonious, soy-tinged black fruit with white pepper sprinkled over the finish. This has personality and…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

A dense, powerful wine, the 2014 Trotanoy wraps around the palate with serious intensity. The flavors are dark and boldly sketched, with plenty of earth-driven undertones that add complexity and nuance. In a vintage that produced so many wines that speak to finesse rather than power, Trotanoy retains its signature broad shoulders and breadth. It…