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Cellar Favorite: Castell’in Villa Library Releases (Jul 2025)

The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva, a library release, is stellar. Dark, ample and explosive, the 2010 is just entering the first part of its drinking window. Black cherry, graphite, leather, scorched earth and incense add to an impression of brooding intensity. There is a touch of oak sweetness, a reminder that the estate introduced some…

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2017 Barbaresco Serraboella captures all the best the vintage has to offer. Floral and lifted, the 2017 is a bit more red-fruited and lighter in body than most vintages, but it has plenty of depth as well. A more gracious, finessed side of this Neive cru emerges over time. The 2017 is a sensual,…

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

The 2016 Barbaresco Serraboella is rich, powerful and explosive, with tremendous depth. A Barbaresco of structure and intensity. Just as it showed from barrel, the 2016 is powerful and imposing, with layers of deeply-pitched, balsamic aromas and flavors woven into its virile, tannic frame. Readers will have to be patient with the 2016, as it…

Advantage Nahe: 2016 Riesling Excellence (Apr 2018)

Musky hints of peony and iris mingle with sea breeze and scents of ripe white peach on a nose that reflects the floral and marine mineral mystery that seem to be part and parcel of Riesling from this great site. While the texture is silken, there are insistent impingements of mustard seed, peach fuzz and…

Germany: Ten Years After – 2004 Dry Riesling (Jan 2015)

Smoky aromas of peach pit, almond and clove. The ripe, crisp apricot flavor is kept quite firm by the wine’s salty, mineral frame. The savory, very long finish brings nut oils into play. Elegant and sophisticated, this is Pechstein at its best. I saw it as almost at the same level of quality as the…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or Vieilles Vignes has a nicely detailed, peppermint tinged bouquet that feels quite feisty. The palate is very limey and minty, more like Riesling in style than a Chardonnay. Bit of an odd showing here.