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The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale, bright lemon-yellow. Reticent nose dominated by spicy oak. Deep but closed and youthfully unforthcoming, with its ripe pear, peach and mineral flavors not yet expressive. Finishes with strong saline minerality and echoing, rising length. Chewier and drier than the Bienvenue. Unlike the other 2013 grand crus from Ramonet, this wine remained stubbornly closed after…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

The most remarkable thing about the 2002 Extra Brut R.D. is how tense and structured it is. Despite having been disgorged over two years ago, the 2002 is very much tightly wound. After several hours, the power and resonance of the vintage start to come through, along with the natural richness of Pinot from Aÿ….

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

(60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay; about 4 g/l dosage; disgorged on October 22, 2013): Light gold. Powerful, mineral-laced scents of orange zest, pear skin, iodine and chamomile, with a hint of anise in the background. On the palate, vibrant orchard and citrus fruit flavors unfurl slowly, picking up toasty lees and mace nuances that…

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

(13.8% alcohol with a bit of chaptalization, according to winemaker Charles Van Canneyt): Deep, full red. Very recent but pure nose eventually reveals scents of musky wild red fruits and smoky, stony minerality; a real essence of Burgundy. Deep and thick on the palate; dense with extract and utterly smooth too but with explosive energy…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Richebourg is, surprisingly, much more expressive than the Romanée St. Vivant. The wine fills out seemingly in all directions with a gorgeous mosaic of ripe red fruit, crushed rocks, mint and flowers. There is fabulous definition in nuance in the aromas and flavors, yet this remains a Richebourg built on understated finesse rather…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Screaming Eagle remains a very young wine. Dark, brooding and quite potent, the 2013 possesses tremendous depth backed by equally serious tannins. Blackberry, graphite, lavender, mocha and dried herbs are some of the many nuances that gradually open in the glass. In most years, Screaming Eagle has a Lafite-like purity of fruit. The…