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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru needed a little encouragement from the glass. Eventually it reveals captivating scents of honeysuckle, petrichor and pressed yellow flowers, an underlying spiciness that comes through with aeration. The palate has a beguiling symmetry from the start: a killer line of acidity counterbalancing the intensity of this Chevalier, gentle grip towards…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2006 Richebourg Grand Cru has a wonderful blackberry, brine and slightly peppery nose, the stem addition maybe a little more tangible than I would have expected. It coalesces in the glass, scents of black tea emerging with time. The palate displays an effortless balance, the fine tannins framing layers of black fruit with veins…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good deep red. Lucid, high-pitched aromas of raspberry, red cherry, minerals and rose petal, with a complicating suggestion of smoky earth. Densely packed and distinctly black in character, but with compelling sweetness to go along with its rather massive, masculine personality. Finishes with muscular but ripe tannins and terrific palate-staining length.

Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2015 (Mar 2016)

The 2006 Richebourg is dark and brooding, with tannins that still need time to resolve. A sense of classic austerity runs through the 2006 that I expect will always be present.

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Quintus has quite a high-toned and outgoing bouquet with liquorice and tinged black fruit. Quite powerful, this gains more cohesion with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, very well balanced, with sappy, pure black fruit laced with minerals and a precise if glossy finish. Wonderful. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting.

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2004 Latour has a comparatively simple bouquet with black cherries and touches of cassis. This does not quite articulate the terroir as well as other vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with a medicinal entry, very supple and rounded with pencil lead and notable saline elements towards the persistent finish. Menthol notes emerge with time….