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Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Medium yellow-gold. Flamboyantly ripe, complex nose combines pineapple, apricot, toffee, clove and vanilla. Hugely sweet and rich, with deep, powerful flavors of honey, marzipan and toffee. A major mouthful of wine, with great lingering sweetness. Today, this makes the Rieussec seem almost polite by comparison.

2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

Vivid ruby. Smoky cherry, red berry and potpourri scents show excellent clarity and pick up spiciness with aeration. Stains the palate with intense black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors, with a sexy floral pastille quality adding complexity. Finishes with impressive energy and thrust, firmed by fine-grained tannins and piquant minerality. Avril thinks that this will…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good ruby-red. Very ripe but lively aromas of kirsch, licorice, bitter chocolate, nuts and violet. Dense and sweet but vibrant, with a medicinal reserve and terrific grip to the superripe fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. Wonderfully rich, pliant wine with late-arriving tannins and a terrific spine for a slow evolution in bottle. Much more tightly…

A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)

The 2005 Beau-Séjour Bécot was picked between 27 September and 5 October. This has a gorgeous bouquet, probably the best that the Bécot family made up until that point. It brims over with redcurrant, cranberry and red plum, hints of rose petal and ripe Satsuma with the mineralité tucked in just underneath. The palate is…

Going Underground: Clos Fourtet 1989-2019 (May 2025)

The 2005 Clos Fourtet was picked between September 26 and October 11 at 35 hl/ha. This has an outstanding bouquet with vivacious red fruit, brimming with crushed stone, a dash of tobacco and orange rind. Very cohesive and focused. There is a slight Rhône-like personality at almost two decades old. The palate is medium-bodied and…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep red-ruby. Reduced nose offers redcurrant, plum, coffee and smoke. Sweet, lush and creamy on entry, then chewy and tactile if a bit closed in the middle, with suggestions of darker fruits and mocha. Impressively broad on the back, showing a serious wave of finishing fruit, but the tannins are a bit sullen today….