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Relive the Nightmare! 2008 Red & White Burgundy (Aug 2022)

The 2008 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is much more complex on the nose than the Champans, with brambly red fruit, a touch of loam developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, taut and crisp, tightly wound red fruit, still quite austere towards the finish, but it gains a little more…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Bright medium red. Pungent aromas of raspberry, cherry, minerals and spices. Lush and silky in the mouth but with terrific energy and a weightless character to the flavors of red fruits, spices and flowers. This round but very young wine has a terrific spine for development in bottle. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright medium red. Perfumed scents of black raspberry and espresso are complicated by soil-driven smoke and crushed-rock notes. The richest and most tactile of these young 2014s but also with great finesse to the flavors of red berries, rose petal, saline minerality and pepper. The wine’s tannins are serious and deep but not hard. This…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Medium red. Aromas of very ripe plum, truffle and menthol. Lush and silky-sweet but with very good energy to the red fruit and spice flavors. Today I don’t find quite the clarity and thrust that a barrel sample showed a year ago, but this ripe, suave, very concentrated wine should offer substantial early pleasure and…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(completely destemmed; aged in 25% new oak): Deep, healthy saturated red; clearer than the last few samples. Pure but subdued aromas of red cherry, spices and flowers. A step up in texture and depth over the Beaune and Volnay wines, showing black cherry and dark plum fruit accented by a positive peppery quality. There’s more…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bourgogne Le Clos du Château has a tightly wound bouquet that needs a little more fruit intensity; it’s too Zen-like at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, moderate weight and a slightly attenuated finish that leaves me wanting a bit more.