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Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 La Tâche Grand Cru is allowed three or four minutes to just settle in the glass. It offers a mélange of red and black fruit, pressed iris flower, and light sea spray scents that remain just off-stage. This, at the moment, is a very nuanced La Tâche. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree…

2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The Lightness of Being (Mar 2025)

The 2022 La Tâche Grand Cru is quite promising in its aromatics but less welcoming on the palate, where it feels a touch strict today. White pepper, sage, mint, blood orange and star anise are nicely lifted. For now, the 2022 La Tâche is somewhat of an enigma. Perhaps I caught it at a slightly…

Future Memories: DRC 2022 In Bottle (Feb 2025)

The 2022 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked 4 to 6 September at 37.6 hL/ha. It is a vintage that demands time in the glass. Occasionally, La Tâche gives immediate pleasure, but the 2022 is more contained and reserved—it hides its secrets well. Eventually, the 2022 offers a mélange of red and black fruit, Earl…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Cool, youthful aromas of wet stone, cinnamon bread, lime, tangerine and menthol. Deep, chewy and rich, with bright acids throwing the spicy cinnamon toast and mineral flavors into sharp relief. Impressively oily, ripe and full, but still painfully young, with truly three-dimensional texture and superb thrust. This should evolve in bottle for years.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Toffee, earth and white chocolate on the nose, plus a strong suggestion of terroir. Concentrated and very rich, with a deep note of beurre blanc and a strong lemony flavor. The acidity carries the flavors through to a long, slightly sweet/sour finish. Like the ’83, this wine is impressively endowed but comes across as somewhat…

Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

Bollinger’s 2004 Brut La Grand Année is a beautiful wine with a lot of vintage character, but the style is a bit less oxidative than Bollinger fans are likely to expect. Pears, hazelnuts, spices and crushed rocks all flow through to the tense, vibrant finish. It will be interesting to see if the 2004 puts…