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Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ Bouchon Racine, London, UK (Oct 2024)

Finally, the 1990 Latour is a vintage that I have not drunk for five years. It is surprisingly youthful on the nose, with dense black fruit, cedar, violet petals and graphite, and it is less opulent than previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with beautiful poise, and the tannins are more polymerized than the magnum…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1991 Latour is a supposed “off vintage” that I have not tasted for a decade or more. It has a fully mature nose, though certainly not past its best at 33 years of age, with dark, brambly red fruit, loam and light floral scents that percolate through with time. This is an atypically “gentle”…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Certan de May is a powerful, dense wine. Graphite, smoke, grilled herbs and dark red and purplish fruit confer a real sense of gravitas that also comes through in the wine's unctuous fruit and overall richness. The 2017 packs a serious punch, that is for sure. Although not the last word in finesse,…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Certan de May is a Pomerol that I am fond of, yet recent vintages have left me perplexed. This vintage does nothing to reduce the number of lines across my furrowed brow. The aromatics never click out of second gear, plenty of earthy, decayed leaf aromas but insufficient fruit to really make the…

Power and Energy: The 2018 and 2017 Northern Rhônes (Apr 2020)

Saturated violet color. Intensely perfumed ripe black/blue fruits, violet candy, exotic spices and smoky minerals show fine definition and lift. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering deeply concentrated yet lively black raspberry, boysenberry, floral pastille and spicecake flavors and a late touch of licorice. Finishes smooth, sappy and extremely long, with chewy tannins lending…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru has a crushed stone scented bouquet. A peppermint trace comes through with aeration. The nose is controlled and citrus-fresh, and I admire the energy. The palate is poised and concentrated, and a silver thread of acidity keeps this Grand Cru tensile and focused. Bright and lightly spiced…