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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Good dark red. Slightly high-toned aromas of red licorice, menthol and spices, showing more red than black fruits. Much more reserved on the palate than the Clos de la Bussière, conveying strong spice character and less easy sweetness. This youthfully medicinal, fairly tannic wine finishes with excellent saline persistence.

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Deep, slightly roasted aromas of blackberry, licorice and smoke. Sweet on the attack, then thick and fine-grained in the middle, with dense dark fruit flavors showing a strong licorice element and solid framing acidity. Finishes very long and ripely tannic, with a hint of warmth.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Gorgeous aromatic lift, precision and tension are the hallmarks of the 2012 Volnay Fremiets. Here the fruit takes on more burnished shades of color, with hints of dark red and black berries, crushed flowers and sweet spices. The Fremiets is a wine of total nuance and precision, and shows the more finessed side of the…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

Rousseau’s 2011 Ruchottes-Chambertin dazzles from start to finish. Plums, black cherries, cloves and violets are among the many notes that are alive in the glass. This is a surprisingly rich, explosive Ruchottes endowed with superb depth and more than enough intensity to drink beautifully for many, many years. What a gorgeous wine this is.

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

(25% new oak; I tasted a representative blend from new and old barrels): Bright, deep color. Wild, musky, ripe dark berries, black cherry and botanical herbs on the captivating nose. Dense and sappy, offering an exhilarating high-wire act of sweetness and acidity. Complex flavors of black raspberry, licorice and game birds. Seriously concentrated, expressive grand…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(Lafon made 50 barrels, which he described as a full crop): Pretty aromas of apricot, peach and flowers are complicated by a seductive leesy quality. Wonderfully silky on the palate, offering a superb balance of fruit and acidity. Relatively sweet in the context of these ’17s, but Lafon insisted that the wine has barely one…