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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Léoville Barton has a delightful bouquet that has held up much better than the 1999 Langoa Barton, brimming over with vivacious black fruit, wild strawberry and cedar; hints of tobacco emerge with time in the glass. This is classic Saint-Julien. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit laced with black olive, tar…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Latour is a wine that I often find overrated and did not achieve everything that might have been possible in this favourable growing season. That said, this might well be the best of around two dozen bottles I have encountered over the years. As usual, the 1996 is decidedly austere at first, standoffish,…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Dark berries, violet, licorice and a note of torrefaction. Explosive, pure flavors are almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and expanding, exhilarating flavors of pruneaux and crystallized dark berries. Perfectly integrated oak. A great Latour.

Vinous Table: Casa Julián, Tolosa, Spain (May 2025)

The 2009 Gran Reserva 904 is a stunning Rioja. Pure crushed strawberry, Morello cherries, fireside hearth and terracotta on the fabulous, exquisitely defined bouquet leaves you instantly entranced. The palate is so elegant and refined with its cashmere tannins, perfectly pitched acidity and sumptuous red-fruit driven finish. It is everything I love about Rioja.

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1996 Lynch-Bages is showing some bricking on the rim. It seems fully mature on the nose with blurred red fruit, autumn leaves and undergrowth. A light ferrous scent emerges with time, later a touch of eucalyptus. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little dry and austere, and fine acidity, but I feel…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Château Margaux is a First Growth that I had not tasted for several years. According to the estate, it finally began to open during the pandemic. I remember this was stellar in its flush of youth, and earned a three-figure score from the Southwold blind tasting way back in 2009. Now at two…