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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Pavillon Blanc comes across as a bit closed today and far less expressive than the reds. Green pear, grapefruit, white flowers and lime unfold in a graceful, exquisite Pavillon Blanc built on delicacy and finesse, while the bright, saline-infused finish makes it virtually impossible to resist a second taste. Tightly-wound and energetic to…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Vivid gold-tinged straw. Fresh aromas of gooseberry, melon and green fig, with hints of ginger and lime oil in the background. Bright and nicely balanced, showing an enticing chewy texture to the honeydew, green fig and herb flavors. Leaves behind a refreshing note of passion fruit on the lingering, bright finish. This Pavillon Blanc offers…

The Glorious 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2018)

(tasted from a 375-milliter bottle): Very bright red with ruby tones; looks like a young wine. Deep, dark red and black fruit aromas are complicated by cinnamon, black pepper, roast coffee and a hint of truffley underbrush. Wonderfully rich but classy and reserved, and not a bit heavy. Utterly silky, plush, energetic wine with a…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Richebourg towers on the palate with huge tannins and almost a severe expression of structure. There is gorgeous depth and brightness in the fruit, but the tannins are searing in their intensity. Still, there is a crystalline purity to the flavors here that is totally compelling. I can’t imagine the 2012 drinking well…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Bright dark red with ruby highlights. Pure, multidimensional nose combines raspberry, licorice, mint, menthol, rose petal and crushed rock. Boasts compelling concentration and sappy tension, showing superb thickness in the context of this collection. A piquant note of blood orange perks up the fruit on the extremely long and subtle back end. More discreet than…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

(64% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot): Bright medium red with an amber edge. Archetypal mature Gruaud-Larose aromas of truffle, smoked beef, earth, cedar, and tobacco complicate red cherry on the expressive. Fresh and juicy in the mouth, with a graceful quality to the red cherry, spicecake, orange rind and…