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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Cheval Blanc has an attractive nose with brambly red fruit, sous-bois, a pencil box and a touch of Xmas cake. It does not take too much aeration before it develops further aromas of black truffle and morels. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy, ripe and tensile with red peppercorn hints toward…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

A wine of exceptional finesse, the 2014 Cheval Blanc lifts from the glass with captivating aromatics and sculpted red-fleshed fruit, all with the extra kick of acidity and overall freshness that are such a signature of this vintage. The 2014 is bright, finessed and persistent. It will almost certainly put on weight in bottle. I…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Lurid violet. Heady, expansive aromas of black raspberry, cassis, green olive, incense and violet carry an exotic spice overtone. Densely packed and focused on the palate, displaying superb clarity to the sappy dark fruit preserve, floral pastille and spicecake flavors. Distinctly powerful, yet there’s surprisingly liveliness here as well. Finishes extremely long and sweet, featuring…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

Medium red, showing a bit less amber than the Santo Stefano. Perfumed aromas of red cherry, flowers and spices. Sweet, spicy and accessible on the front half, but kept firm by solid, nicely integrated acidity. Then juicy, tight and firmly tannic on the back end, but already showing lovely perfume. In this instance, I clearly…

1999 Barolo: Brilliance, Intensity and Class (Aug 2014)

The 1999 Barolo Villero impresses for its intense, bright fruit and overall precision. Sweet red cherries, flowers and pine open up in the glass, followed by expressive floral overtones that add nuance. The 1999 can be enjoyed today, or anytime over the next decade, give or take. This is a terrific showing from the Villero.

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Corton Les Grandes Lolières Grand Cru has a very perfumed bouquet with ebullient red fruit, sloes, marmalade and light minty scents. It could have toppled over and become a bit overdone, but it actually/thankfully retains composure and precision. The palate is medium-bodied and lightly spiced with sappy red fruit, white pepper and clove,…