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An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 1983 Gruaud Larose is a vintage I have enjoyed several times. It has a delectable bouquet of dark red berry fruit, redcurrant and a touch of pomegranate, with subtle notes of cedar, tobacco and a touch of black tea. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins that lend it a very good structure. There…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1998 Magdelaine came from an ex-cellar magnum, and what a splendid wine it is! Even at 20 years of age, it is a youthful Saint-Émilion that is only beginning to open up. The bouquet instantly blossoms from the glass, offering crushed strawberry, raspberry preserve and hints of blue fruit, perhaps the most precocious nose…

Vertical Tasting of Château Magdelaine (Mar 2012)

(95% merlot and 5%cabernet franc; 3.55 pH; 53 IPT 53; 13.4% alcohol): Very deep ruby-red with the barest hint of amber at the rim. Rich, deep, utterly captivating aromas of black cherry, red plum and cocoa, complicated by a hint of vanilla and a lovely spicy calcaire freshness. Very dense, rich and lush on the…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Good medium ruby. Complex, pure aromas of bitter cherry, raspberry, iron and graphite. Smooth and consistent in the mouth, with fresh bitter cherry flavor over a firm minerally spine. Tannins are even and ripe, and the subtle finishing red berry and mineral flavors build nicely. This has the structure to develop slowly in bottle. A…

1997 and 1996 Sauternes (Jul 1999)

Straw-gold. Marzipan, honey and toasted hazelnut on the nose. Moderately viscous and currently rather oaky. Has an impressively chewy texture but is not yet displaying its personality. Finishes with some youthful harshness. The ’97 is at once stronger and finer.

Sharing Alike: Petrus 1947 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 1983 Petrus is a vintage that I have only encountered on one or two occasions. It has an easygoing nose with leather and game, perhaps a little dustiness that detracts from its definition. It is not fatigued but you could say that the batteries are down to a single bar. The palate is balanced…