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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru, which underwent replanting up until 1999, has an appealing bouquet of wild strawberry, raspberry preserve and crushed stone aromas, touches of rose petal emerging with aeration. The palate is framed by fine-grained tannin, quite citric on the entry and one of the most Pommard-like of d’Angerville’s Volnays. This is…

Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

Healthy medium red with a fresh rim. Medicinal black cherry and mint on the nose, plus a whiff of something rustic. Conveys a distinctly vinous, penetrating quality but this salty, high-acid style is not particularly fruity. Seems fully mature but should hold on for a while on its moderate density, firm acidity and tannic structure….

Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

The Clos des Ducs Lutte Raisonnée, made from vines that were treated with phytosanitary products against oidium and mildew in spring: Aromas of strawberry, rose petal, smoke, leather and earth became increasingly perfumed with air. Intensely flavored and fresh; not especially fleshy but really stands out for its inner-mouth perfumed lift and dominant strawberry and…

Marquis d’Angerville: Volnay Clos des Ducs 1920-2010 (Dec 2016)

Harvested 5-8th September. A very accessible Ducs. Much lighter and less dense than the 2010 or 2009, but also much more approachable. Guillaume d’Angerville calls it “tender.” I call it useful – a wine to drink while waiting for the ‘05 and the ‘99 to come around. The Ducs minerality is here, along with enough…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(from vines planted in the 1960s; the crop level here was just 18 hectoliters per hectare): Good medium red. Very ripe aroma of chocolate-covered raspberry. Tactile and sweet, projecting strong cherry/berry fruit but a bit short on finesse. Finishes with substantial chewy, chocolatey-ripe tannins. Makes a satisfying mouthful already but this premier cru has the…