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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Mouton Rothschild clearly has a fresher bouquet than the Clerc Milon or Armailhac: copious black fruit, cedar, graphite and violet scents soar from the glass, entrancing with beautiful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite poised and less ferrous than some of its peers. Mint and veins of dark chocolate are…

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Good medium red. Blacker, fresher aromas of dark cherry and minerals. Juicy, spicy and sweet on the palate, with good grip and thrust to the dark fruit flavors. This boasts very good definition and cut for 2007 and finishes persistent and aromatic, with rather suave tannins.

Domaine Leroy: The 2014s from Bottle (Mar 2017)

Translucent red cherry fruit and lifted aromatics make a strong first impression in the 2014 Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Allots. Beams of supporting tannin and a burst of saline-infused energy give the 2014 its shape. The 2014 is clearly still recovering from its bottling. Still, the wine’s focus is admirable. In many ways, the Aux Allots encapsulates…

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Medium red. Plum, mocha and chocolate on the nose. Juicy, spicy and sweet, with very good vinosity and cut to the fresh red fruit flavors. Not as severe in its youth as this wine often is. Finishes with good lingering sweetness of fruit. This will be accessible early.

Domaine Leroy: The 2014s from Bottle (Mar 2017)

Lalou Bize-Leroy’s 2014 Vosne-Romanée Genaivrières is simply magnificent. A wine of precision, tension and nuance, the 2014 is delicate and beautifully lifted in the glass. Sweet red cherry and pomegranate fruit, silky tannins and expressive aromatics convey an impression of total sensuality. The Genaivrières is one of the more feminine wines in the range. There…

Domaine Leroy: The 2014s from Bottle (Mar 2017)

Gravitas and power are two of the signatures of Leroy’s 2014 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts. The flavors and textures are boldly sketched. Layers of dark-fleshed fruit add to the wine’s virile intensity and overall feel. This deep, resonant Vosne is going to require a good bit of patience. Even so, it is fascinating to contemplate…