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Bending Rules: Les Carmes Haut-Brion 1955-2019 (Oct 2022)

The 2019 Les Carmes Haut-Brion contains 60% whole bunches, matured for 26 months in 82% new oak with 9% each of amphora and foudres. This has a beautifully-defined bouquet with pure Dorset plum, wild mint and incense aromas, just a hint of lavender in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with chiselled tannins, crisp acidity,…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has a rich and slightly honeyed bouquet with hints of hazelnut, green olive and pressed flowers. The palate is balanced, with a lightly spiced, ginger-tinged entry. It feels very tight and backward at the moment, although it does convey energy toward the finish; therefore, I am inclined to…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright, light, green-tinged yellow. Musky limey lift to the fruit-driven aromas of lemon and mandarin orange. Suave, seamless wine with lovely richness and no edges, but very youthful and more citrussy than the Champ-Canet, showing less easy sweetness. This concentrated, nicely delineated wine mounts slowly and lingers on the elegant, vibrant aftertaste. A lovely sexy…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Margaux is impressive. I could describe the aromas and flavors, but ultimately, the 2013 is really a wine of texture above all else. An intensely floral finish gives lift to the dark red fruit in an understated, classy wine long on finesse. For the first time, Margaux includes no Merlot in 2013. This…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(94% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot): Full, deep red. Restrained but very deep aromas of blueberry, redcurrant and quinine; a real step up in concentration from the Pavillon Rouge. Sharply focused and gripping in the mouth, with enticingly sappy, creamy red and dark berry flavors complicated by minty tobacco and sweet…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Château Margaux has a fragrant nose with pressed iris, clove, bay leaf and light leafy scents, well-defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with a very slight greenness on the entry. With moderate weight and fine acidity, the finish feels rather simple. Maybe Palmer has the upper hand in this off-vintage? Tasted at…