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Northern Rhône 2023: The Art of Perseverance (Jan 2025)

The classic 2022 Saint-Joseph Saint-Épine reveals notes of ripe black cherry, pencil shaving, cedar and a touch of blueberry. Medium- to full-bodied and built around a solid tannic structure, the concentrated 2022 showed very well on this occasion. This checks out with lovely freshness on the savory close.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Alluring nose combines lemon, lime, crushed rock and a sexy leesy element. Dense and thick but with terrific mineral spine and energy to its flavors of citrus fruits and white flowers. Great unmistakable Burgundy funk here. Moreau told me that this wine is fairly low in acidity but its saline minerality nonetheless gives it a…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Pale lemon-yellow color. Pungent aromas of lemon zest and crushed stone. Voluminous on the attack, then densely packed and energetic in the mid-palate, showing salty minerality, sexy restrained sweetness and a more floral character than the Batard. More accessible on the back half than the Batard and not at all austere, with the savory finish…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 La Dominique is a wine of density and power. Inky red fruit, cedar, new leather, tobacco, holiday spice cake, mocha and torrefaction give La Dominique its heady, extroverted personality. Extraction is pushed, and there is quite a bit of oak, but it all works well. I would prefer to drink the 2005 over…

An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 2005 La Dominique impressed out of barrel but strangely I never encountered it again. Quite deep in appearance, it has a fresh and vibrant bouquet with ample red cherries, mulberry and allspice aromas that soar from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, smooth in texture with…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep red. Plum, truffle, leather, coffee and mocha on the nose. Fat, lush and sweet, with the truffley quality carrying through onto the palate. The major tannins reach the incisors. Not exactly an elegant style, but there’s plenty of material here.