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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Cuvée Fontaine Jacquinots, which contains a small portion of whole bunch, comes from 70- to 80-year-old vines. It has an elegant bouquet of tertiary red fruit laced with tobacco and pain grillé aromas, plus background scents of ash/embers. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, good depth and touches of Earl…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a beautifully defined, pure bouquet of ample red cherry and wild strawberry aromas and discreetly interwoven oak. The palate is very well balanced, offering fine tannin and a crisp line of acidity, and full of tension and poise, leading to a razor-sharp, quite mineral-driven finish. This is a pleasant…

Lagrange 1959-2015 (Dec 2020)

The 2007 Lagrange was picked from 12 September and 18 October – a vintage when they waited and waited to obtain ripeness. Deep in colour, the bouquet feels a little disjointed on the nose after the previous two vintages, but it gradually coheres with black/red fruit, sandalwood and clove aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with…

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Bright ruby-red. Currant, menthol and minerals on the sexy nose, complemented by a subtle note of candied rose. Juicy, high-pitched and sharply delineated, showing lovely purity and intensity of flavor and very good spicy thrust. The rising finish hints at dried rose. This classically dry midweight is built to age, and should really be laid…

Champagne: The 2017 Summer Preview (Jul 2017)

The 2002 Clos du Mesnil is wonderfully pliant and expressive in the glass. The radiant personality of the year comes through in the wine’s ripe, tropically-leaning flavors and open-knit personality. I imagine the 2002 will develop at a relatively fast pace by Clos du Mesnil standards. Even so, there is more than enough freshness underpinning…