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Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 Corton Grand Cru was cropped at 33hl/ha, picked on September 4 and bottled on January 23, 2019. The heavenly bouquet, probably one of the finest I have encountered from this property since its inception in 2009, features brambly red fruit, discreet touches of hawthorn and succinct use of oak. Curiously, there is something…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Saturated dark red. Superripe, slightly high-toned aromas of candied black raspberry and licorice; as at so many other cellars, the first 2015 came across as distinctly roasted following the 2016s. Plush, sweet and superripe–in fact almost porty–with black cherry and bitter chocolate flavors accented by spices. Finishes with big, ripe but somewhat unrefined tannins and…

Brunello di Montalcino 2007: A Worthy Successor to 2006 (Apr 2012)

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva comes across as a bit reticent. It reveals lovely detail and nuance, but without the firmness of many other young vintages. Today the 2006 is quite accessible. I will be surprised if it doesn’t start shutting down at some point. Regardless, the 2006 appears to be built more on…

Santa Cruz Mountains: Wines of Breathtaking Pedigree (Sep 2020)

The 2008 Monte Bello is in a gorgeous spot right now, as the aromatics are just starting to show the complex nuances that only develop in bottle. Worn-in leather, licorice, scorched earth, savory herbs and chocolate meld into a core of intense dark fruit. Slightly angular contours hint at a bit of rusticity. My impression…

Vintage Retrospective: The 2008 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2018)

(13.3% alcohol): Bright, saturated ruby; this looks younger than a ten-year-old wine. Cassis, licorice, tar, mint, dark chocolate and crushed rock on the nose, plus some obvious spicy, vanillin American oak. At once seamless and piquant on the palate, with pungent licorice and herb notes enlivening the dark berry fruit flavors. A real live wire…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Glass-staining ruby. Powerful scents of red and dark berry preserves, smoked meat, violet and minerals offer impressive clarity and expand in the glass. Velvety in texture, with deep, liqueur-like red berry flavors, gentle tannins and a strong undercurrent of lively minerals. The smoky note repeats strongly on the lush, seductively sweet finish. Extremely appealing even…