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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru has a tight-lipped bouquet that demands coaxing from the glass; the 80% whole bunches imparts captivating undergrowth/damp moss aromas that filter through the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied and quite dense, with grippy tannin and a light espresso note. I find the Mazis-Chambertin has a little more grace on…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru is tightly wound on the nose and nicely defined, offering blackberry, raspberry and light floral aromas; a light marine note emerges with time. The medium-bodied palate is quite saline and features sappy black fruit and a fine bead of acidity. Beautifully focused and harmonious, delivering satisfying substance on the surprisingly…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Mouton Baron Philippe, now Château d’Armailhac, was in fact the last vintage under this name before it changed. The nose is much fresher than the 1988 Clerc Milon with lifted blackberry, raspberry, sage and cedar aromas that have remained quite fresh and vital. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a fine thread…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Château Issan has a potent bouquet with bold toasty black plum and gamey scents. There's possibly just a bit of Brettanomyces here. The palate is pure and medium-bodied with a pleasant fluidity, a keen bead of acidity and a tensile finish. This is modern in style and well made, yet I am certain…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022: Bring It On (Jun 2024)

The alluring 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape won me over in a heartbeat. Vivid licorice, sage, blueberry, lavender, red and black cherry as well as crushed flowers hail from the glass. Full-bodied and intense, the 2022 packs ample flavor concentration yet always maintains balance through lifting freshness. Polished tannins neatly structure this ambitious 2022 that has the potential…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Saturated violet color. Powerful, mineral- and spice-accented blackberry, cherry compote, smoky bacon and violet scents take on olive and vanilla nuances with air. Juicy and deeply concentrated, offering expansive, alluringly sweet black and blue fruit preserve, mocha, cured meat and floral pastille flavors that become deeper and spicier as the wine stretches out. The floral…