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Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Bright purple. Powerful, smoke-accented black and blue fruit, candied flowers, licorice, olive and Indian spices on the deeply perfumed nose. Sappy, concentrated and seamless on the palate, offering alluringly sweet blackberry, cherry compote, violet pastille and spicecake flavors that show excellent clarity and mineral lift. Expressive and surprisingly lithe given its depth, finishing with building…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Croix de Beaucaillou has fragrant brambly red berry fruit on the nose, plenty of undergrowth/woodland scents coming through, although it does not quite clock into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. Certainly one of the more approachable 2010 Médoc crus, this has a satisfying harmonious, lightly spiced finish. I observed…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good dark red. Aromas of cassis, menthol, spices, herbs and mocha went into a shell in the glass. Sweet raspberry, currant, tobacco and spice flavors are supple and pliant in spite of the wine’s firm acidity and high percentage of cabernet sauvignon. This juicy, approachable wine offers nicely ripe tannins and excellent length.

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(85% cabernet sauvignon and 15% merlot; 3.64 pH; 60% new oak; 13.7% alcohol) Dark ruby-red. Exotic aromas of red berries and Oriental spices complicated by cedar and black tea nuances. Then muscular and brawny on the palate, but with plenty of ripe red fruit flavor and smooth tannins. The persistent finish is clean and pure….

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

Good full, bright yellow. Honey and marzipan on the rather stunted nose. Then supersweet, dense and tactile, but with the ripe pineapple and marzipan flavors currently muted by sulfur dioxide. Shows the power of the vintage but will need time to express itself.

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

Magnificent in its complexity and pure breeding, the 2002 Extra Brut Celebris has it all. The Extra Brut style confers the signature Gosset drive, while extended time on the lees has given the wine just enough texture and body to fill out nicely. In the meantime, the aromas and flavors have mellowed into those that…