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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1982 Grand-Puy-Lacoste continues to dazzle. This is in such a good place at the moment. From a regular bottle this time, it has a gorgeous blackberry, cedar and pencil box-scented bouquet that revs up with aeration. Pure & classic. The palate is wonderfully balanced; the tannins have finally polymerized to lend this 1982 the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Grand-Puy-Lacoste put in a magnificent performance where it looks the First Growths in the eye and challenges their supposed superiority. This is unquestionably the best of a two-dozen-plus bottle enjoyed over the years. It is brilliantly focused and intense on the nose with black fruit, cedar and graphite – quintessentially Pauillac, undimmed by…

2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

Presented in three components, as is Reynaud’s custom. #1: High-pitched red berry and floral aromas show superb purity and focus. Racy, crisp and concentrated, offering intense raspberry and cherry flavors and a bracing mineral nuance. Finishes long and spicy, with a whiplash of zesty minerality and lingering red fruit. #2: Deeper and darker in profile,…

2011 and 2010 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2013)

Vivid ruby. An explosively perfumed bouquet displays red and dark berry preserves, potpourri, licorice and smoky minerals. Broad and fleshy, offering deeply concentrated black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a strong note of floral pastilles. Chewy tannins give grip to a powerful, alluringly sweet, endless finish. Shows as much density as I can recall…

2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

Bright ruby-red. An exotic bouquet presents black raspberry, incense, Asian spices and blood orange. On the palate, sweet red and dark berry flavors become more tangy and spicy with air. Shows an impressive blend of depth and vivacity and finishes with outstanding focus and thrust and gentle tannic grip. Evidently this wine didn’t get the…

Two Cape Crusaders: Alheit & Mullineux (Jun 2019)

The 2014 Radio Lazarus unfolds beautifully in the glass with fennel, Provençal herbs, terracotta and beeswax aromas that have become more complex than I remember. The palate has an effortless balance with orange rind, white peach and sage, a little more viscous than the 2015 without quite the same degree of persistence. Excellent. Tasted from…