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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Léoville Poyferré has a slight menthol note on the nose, mainly black fruit with a touch of licorice. It just needs a little more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a licorice-infused entry. It’s done in a modern style (dare I say, typical of Michel Rolland at that time). An opulent finish just…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Gazin has a perfumed bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, black truffle and iris, broody at first but responding immediately to aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, initially a little disjointed and I would have liked more depth and concentration to come through on the linear, straight-laced finish. It is a fine Gazin…

Antinori Solaia From Magnum: 1978-2016 (Sep 2020)

Another rich, sumptuous wine, the 2009 Solaia (magnum) is stellar. Opulent and expansive on the palate, with tremendous resonance, the 2009 is radiant, yet it benefits quite a bit from the large format, which helps preserve a measure of freshness. Red cherry/raspberry jam, spice, new French oak and floral notes build into the dense, beautifully…

Tuscany Part 2: The Tuscan Coast, More Supertuscans et al (Sep 2012)

(mostly cabernet sauvignon with a little franc): Deep ruby-red. Pungent, brooding aromas of cassis, blackberry jelly, licorice, clove, bay leaf and violet; very aromatic and very cabernet sauvignon. Dense, highly concentrated and seamless, with good verve thanks to harmonious acidity that lifts the dark fruit and aromatic cedar flavors. Finishes with superripe, fine, toothcoating tannins,…

Vinous Table, A Wong, London, UK (Feb 2022)

Finally, there was the 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Château Rayas. This rather overshadowed the preceding Burgundy with its flattering scents of crushed strawberry, ripe clementines and incense, light leathery notes emerging with time. The palate is elegant and refined, one of the most transparent Rayas reds that I have encountered, leading to a persistent, licorice-tinged finish….