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2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Medium red. Vibrant strawberry, raspberry, anise and floral aromas could fill a room. Juicy and sharply delineated, offering sweet red berry and cherry preserve flavors with compelling accents of licorice, sassafras, lavender and smoky minerals. Extremely elegant wine with outstanding finishing cut and persistence. Not many grand cru Burgundies could match this for finesse.

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2012 Grand Vintage is a very pretty, high-toned Champagne. Surprisingly nervous for this radiant vintage, the 2012 is going to need a bit of time to be at its best. Some of that may be attributable to early release of the 2012, which was bottled after only five years on its lees rather than…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

Tasted two or three times before, the 1998 Calon Segur is a wine that showed well from barrel but became rather curmudgeonly in bottle. This bottle replicated the one shown at BI Wine & Spirit’s Calon Segur dinner early in 2016. It is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot and…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Very good deep ruby. Spicy aromas of black raspberry, cassis, black cherry, licorice and cocoa powder. Supple and lush, with a chocolatey merlot character and adequate acidity. Not especially dense and unusually forward for a northern Medoc wine from this vintage. Finishes with dusty tannins and good but not outstanding length.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Latour is served blind with a mischievous Nicolas Glumineau next door at Pichon-Lalande. This is a fine showing for a wine unfairly lying in the shadow of the previous vintage. Blackberry, tobacco and shavings of black truffle on the nose that is higher-toned than you would expect (indeed, it throws me off identifying…

1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Full red. Superripe aromas of redcurrant, plum and tobacco. Nicely concentrated and juicy, with smoke and herbal nuances. Finishes with good length and dusty tannins, along with a faint herbaceousness that I did not notice in a bottle tasted a year ago just after the mise.