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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Cheval Blanc has another extravagant bouquet with ample red cherries, raspberry preserve, mulberry, fig and singed leather. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite dense and assertive, backward with a sinewy finish that just feels a little forced compared to some of the other wines in this flight. With time in the…

Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

The 2017 Solaia has shut down since I last tasted it about a year ago, but not as dramatically as Tignanello. The difference might be that Sangiovese drives the blend in Tignanello, while Cabernet Sauvignon is at the core of Solaia. Even so, today, I see more energy than in the past. As a recent…

Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More (Apr 2018)

The 2014 Sassicaia is polished and expressive for the year. But it is also quite a bit darker and more concentrated than when it was a young wine. That search for a level of depth in aging that the vintage did not provide on its own also concentrated the tannins, which are a bit out…

Champagne Jacques Selosse Retrospective Tasting & Dinner (Jun 2023)

The 2011 Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello is such a surprise. Bright, translucent red, the 2011 immediately impresses with its captivating freshness and precision. There’s so much vibrancy. Given the warm, dry year, I was expecting to see a Barolo with some early signs of maturity, but the 2011 is incredibly young, not to mention an…

The Last Supper…For Now (Apr 2020)

The 2011 Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello is blessed with a divine bouquet, surfeit with red cherries, crushed strawberry, decaying autumn leaves and rose petal, and later a hint of roasted chestnut and Montecristo. The palate is fresh, poised, not deep but harmonious and satin-like in texture. Elegant on the finish, not profound but so, so…

2011 Barolo: The Here and Now (Mar 2015)

Maria-Theresa Mascarello’s 2011 Barolo is one of the more refined wines of the year, with less size than many other 2011s, and plenty of immediacy. Racy and giving on the palate, but with good underlying structure, the 2011 impresses for its juxtaposition of the riper elements of the vintage and more classic attributes that are…