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Multifarious 2017 Mosels, Part 1: Winningen to Wehlen (Jan 2020)

Pear and cherry preserves significantly marked by the piquancy of seeds and pits join tingling pineapple and zesty candied grapefruit peel on a penetrating nose and a creamy, buoyant palate. A chiffon-like sense of delicacy and airiness is uncannily allied to intense flavor concentration. Hints of caramel apple and white raisin add to what becomes…

Pfalz Riesling 2016: Restraint Rewarded (Jun 2018)

Pungently penetrating, Pechstein-typical scents of sage and pennyroyal anticipate the green herbal intensity and tactile impingement of green herbs on a polished, glycerol-rich palate. There is a juicy midpalate matrix of white peach and lime, and the finish here is refreshingly sustained and coolingly green-herbal, though not as gripping or decisive as what came before…

Pfalz Riesling 2016: Restraint Rewarded (Jun 2018)

A haunting nose delivers lavender, sage, iris and chamomile, along with hints of white peach, which lends subsequent juiciness. As with the corresponding 2015, this exhibits an especially flatteringly silken, subtly creamy texture in comparison with the other Mosbacher bottlings. Peach kernel and almond serve for piquant counterpoint, and billowing, bittersweet floral perfume persists inner-mouth….

Pfalz Riesling 2016: Restraint Rewarded (Jun 2018)

A juicy, salty, piquant suggestion of white peach near the core is accompanied by Forst-typical high-toned, pungent green herbal notes, here suggestive of peppermint and wintergreen. The palate is silken, cooling, generously juicy and invigoratingly tangy and piquant. The finish is brightly penetrating and delivers the vibrant active sense of mineral and herbal impingement that…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2007)

Medium red. Dried cherry, plum and coconut on the nose, with complicating notes of dried rose, baking spices and musky underbrush. Lush red fruit and vanillin oak flavors are supple and sweet. Very soft tannins add a light chewiness to the impressively long, spicy finish. Very pretty stuff.

2014 Barbaresco: An October Surprise (Oct 2017)

The 2014 Barbaresco Tulin is a powerhouse. A rush of dark-fleshed fruit, chocolate, mocha, cedar, smoke and leather hits the palate. Brooding and tannic, the 2014 is going to need at least a few more years in bottle to be at its best. There is no shortage of power or intensity, that much is evident.