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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux has a very pure bouquet with blackberry, raspberry coulis, cedar and light violet aromas, quite intense and graining power in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly powdery tannin. The acidity is very well judged, a completely harmonious Pavillon Rouge with just the right amount of spice…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2001 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has astonishing intensity on the nose, perhaps more like a 1999, with copious black cherries, black truffle, juniper berries and eucalyptus. It seems incredibly young even when juxtaposed against Méo-Camuzet’s Cros Parantoux from the same vintage. The palate is medium-bodied, quite structured and grippy, backward and rather masculine yet…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

Deep red. Exotic, sappy aromas of redcurrant, cherry, coffee and minerals; the most primary of these 2001s up to this point. Juicy, penetrating and perfumed in the mouth, with red berry, mineral and coffee flavors nicely framed by ripe acidity. Silky, sexy wine with lovely lingering back-end perfume. Still youthfully tight, and in need of…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

(65% grenache, 20% mourvedre, 10% syrah and the rest the others) Deep red. Explosively perfumed nose offers a profound bouquet of red and dark berries, licorice, incense and musky underbrush. Broad, palate-staining raspberry and blackcurrant flavors are enveloped in velvety tannins, with suave anise and Asian spices adding complexity. A huge but balanced-even graceful-wine, with…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005: The Grand Backbone Vintage

The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is elegance personified, opening with dried herbs, cassis, tobacco and forest floor, complex but without any distracting mushroom tones. It shows superbly after 90 minutes in a carafe, full-bodied and concentrated with resolved tannins carrying the long, generous finale. Don’t pop and pour, as this wine demands patience to reveal its full…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good deep ruby-red. Captivating nose combines blackberry, menthol, licorice, bitter chocolate, violet and a flinty, iron-like element. Densely packed and very fresh, with superb energy and definition to the complex flavors of cassis, blackberry, licorice, menthol and minerals. A floral element contributes to the impression of vibrancy. This is more impressive than it was at…