Archives: Product Reviews

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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Mouton Rothschild takes a few swirls of the glass to coalesce, slightly minty black fruit commingling with cassis and iris flower. Doesn’t quite “flow” like subsequent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy on the mid-palate and concentrated in the context of the vintage. A touch of burnt toast and white…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2013 Cristal (magnum) is outrageously beautiful. A Champagne of stature and pure breeding, the 2013 is so impressive from the big bottle. There is a timelessness to Cristal in magnum that is so special in how the wine ages at the most gradual pace. The purity of the fruit is striking, as is the…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2013 Cristal (magnum) is outrageously beautiful. A Champagne of stature and pure breeding, the 2013 is so impressive from the big bottle. There is a timelessness to Cristal in magnum that is so special in how the wine ages at the most gradual pace. The purity of the fruit is striking, as is the…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot has really closed down since I tasted it en primeur. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, mint and blood orange gradually open in the glass, all framed by veins of chalky minerality. The 2018 is a fabulous wine in the making, but readers have to be patient. Time in a decanter…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot is nicely detailed on the nose of pixelated black fruit laced with raspberry and subtle floral scents; back notes of marmalade come through with aeration. The pliant palate is medium-bodied with luscious tannins disguising the structure behind this Saint-Émilion. I suspect that it might close up for a period before blossoming…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Valandraud was unfortunately oxidized. Tasted blind at the 2015 Bordeaux Ten-Year-On tasting.